I Scare Myself
|201 page views|
I Scare Myself is an excellent, sustained pocket route that is unfortunately marred by a heinous runout to the first bolt.
Begin up a vegitated ledge, then up to a shallow right-facing corner, that fades into another shallow, right-facing corner up & left. It would be possible to place some sketchy finger-sized gear in either of these corners. Punch up over a slight bulge on incut shallow pockets past the first bolt. Long reaches between good pockets with sparse feet lead to slabbier climbing and a diagonaling crack. It's possible to avoid the crack to extend the excellent pocket section by staying right on the bolt line, but this is a bit contrived.
The next route right of "Teenage Wristband". Immediately left of "Kinesthesia".
3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The first bolt is ~30 feet up, and can't be reached with a stick clip. Finger-sized gear can be placed in the opening corner, which would make the route G-rated if the gear were solid (?).
Another option is to climb Kinesthesia first, and clip the rope into the first bolt of I Scare Myself while lowering. Yet another option would be to stick clip the first bolt of Kinesthesia.