I Scare Myself  5.11b R

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Dave Dangle, Rich Aschert, Darryl Roth, 1988 Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Jun 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

I Scare Myself is an excellent, sustained pocket route that is unfortunately marred by a heinous runout to the first bolt.

Begin up a vegitated ledge, then up to a shallow right-facing corner, that fades into another shallow, right-facing corner up & left. It would be possible to place some sketchy finger-sized gear in either of these corners. Punch up over a slight bulge on incut shallow pockets past the first bolt. Long reaches between good pockets with sparse feet lead to slabbier climbing and a diagonaling crack. It's possible to avoid the crack to extend the excellent pocket section by staying right on the bolt line, but this is a bit contrived.

Location 

The next route right of "Teenage Wristband". Immediately left of "Kinesthesia".

Protection 

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The first bolt is ~30 feet up, and can't be reached with a stick clip. Finger-sized gear can be placed in the opening corner, which would make the route G-rated if the gear were solid (?).

Another option is to climb Kinesthesia first, and clip the rope into the first bolt of I Scare Myself while lowering. Yet another option would be to stick clip the first bolt of Kinesthesia.