|The Dark Side
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I Scare Myself is an excellent, sustained pocket route that is unfortunately marred by a heinous runout to the first bolt.
Begin up a vegitated ledge, then up to a shallow right-facing corner, that fades into another shallow, right-facing corner up & left. It would be possible to place some sketchy finger-sized gear in either of these corners. Punch up over a slight bulge on incut shallow pockets past the first bolt. Long reaches between good pockets with sparse feet lead to slabbier climbing and a diagonaling crack. It's possible to avoid the crack to extend the excellent pocket section by staying right on the bolt line, but this is a bit contrived.
The next route right of "Teenage Wristband". Immediately left of "Kinesthesia".
3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The first bolt is ~30 feet up, and can't be reached with a stick clip. Finger-sized gear can be placed in the opening corner, which would make the route G-rated if the gear were solid (?).
Another option is to climb Kinesthesia first, and clip the rope into the first bolt of I Scare Myself while lowering. Yet another option would be to stick clip the first bolt of Kinesthesia.
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R
The hardware on this route is in poor shape, and the bolts are way to the right of the natural climbing. If the hardware and locations were modernized, this would be a popular route. The actual climbing on it is very good.