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Happy Hour Crag
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I, Robot 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kurt Gray and Charly Oliver, 1979.
Page Views: 5,268
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (104)
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BETA PHOTO: Per M.Morley: 1 - I, Robot. 2 - Are We Not Men. 3...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start in the shallow, right-facing dihedral, about 2 feet to the left of the tree. Climb up to the ledge 10 feet up and slightly left, and then follow the crack running up and right to the top.

Protection 

Look for the two trees, and bring long slings (20 feet).


Photos of I, Robot Slideshow Add Photo
Near the crux at the bottom.
Near the crux at the bottom.
I, Robot in the center. Fun finger locks at the top.
BETA PHOTO: I, Robot in the center. Fun finger locks at the to...

Comments on I, Robot Add Comment
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By pete cogan
Sep 23, 2002

This route can also be led with a standard rack, up to a #3.5 Camalot. The crack that I went up, moving left to right diagonally as you look up was flaring, but it did take two cams. Leading this is certainly an option before it gets covered in top ropes, although the flaring cracks made the pro less than ideal.

Not just for top roping!
By Kevin Craig
May 28, 2005

If you lead this, make sure to have plenty of small gear for the thin fingers crack up above. Small nuts and Aliens work well. Some good finger locks in the crack, but the feet are mostly smears at the crux (a small bulge) - harder than it looks from below, but 5.7 feels about right.
By Jason Shatek
Mar 21, 2006

Cool crux, it's lots of fun if you only use the finger crack and don't wimp out and go left. There is a fixed stopper at the crux as of 3/18/06. I would say only using the finger crack by itself could go at 5.8.
By Jo Holloway
Sep 30, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I just did this as my first 5.7 lead. I found it relatively straight-forward to sew up the finger-crack on the upper part of the pitch with finger-sized cams (e.g., blue to yellow Aliens). If you have small-to-medium sized hands, you can get in some great finger locks that will get you through the smeary crux with limited fretting.
By mt.wilson
From: Denver
Mar 15, 2010

Sweet finger locks at the top. I would have given 3 stars if it were longer....
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 14, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Taken direct, this has a well-protected UK 5a move in the top crack, so I don't understand the 5.7 rating.
By Joshua Steenburgh
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I gave this three stars, because the climbing is really great with a lot of fun moves, especially for such a moderate grade.
By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
Mar 7, 2012

I loved this little route, reminded me of the City of Rocks. Anyone know where I can find a similar but longer version around here?
By Jim Fox
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 6, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Top half of climb is 3 stars, Great finger crack . Fun climb. The start was a little awkward but not difficult.

I'd agree with 5.7+ if you use just the crack on the upper part.