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Reservoir Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Face 
Errors of Our Ways 
Goodro's Chimney 
I Ran To Afghanistan 
Iraq in the Back Attack 
Reservoir Ridge 
Unknown Trad Line 
War Clamor 
Unsorted Routes:

I Ran To Afghanistan 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: James Garrett, May 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime when dry
Page Views: 1,130
Submitted By: James Garrett on May 25, 2012
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Description 

A very consistent and long pitch for the area. This is the most rightward route on this popular East facing wall.

Pitch #1: Start out right in the corner on quartzite changing to brittle shale in the left facing corner trending right and staying on the good quartzite rock typical for BCC. Tackle an easy roof and run straight up the obvious swath on good holds to the two-bolt belay on the ridge crest. 5.7, 35m.

A FULL 35m rappel brings you directly back to the start of the climb.

Lowering rather than rappelling may leave the climber somewhat above ground. ALWAYS tie a knot on the end or use two ropes or extend the anchor with slings and locking carabiners if top roping (TR) for beginner climbers.



Location 

On the Reservoir Ridge Wall, starts at the base and trends rightward and up to the ridge line.

Starts immediately to the right of Iraq In The Back Attack and then veers away from it.

This climb requires at least a 70m rope as it is a full 35m pitch. Using a shorter rope and/or using up some of your rope being tied in and top roping as is so common here will lead to problems. Please use a 70m rope and rappel or extend the anchors or use a longer rope or a pair of twin (two) 60m ropes if lowering.


Protection 

QDs for 10 bolts to a two-bolt belay/chain anchor.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 31, 2012
By Brian in SLC
May 28, 2012

Nice, James...

I kinda wonder, given the crowd at that crag, if a lower anchor, or, a tag on the belay anchor, might help folks not automatically lower down off that route. That'd be grim to use a 60m rope and have the belayer not notice the rope going short during a lower.

Kind of an accident waiting to happen, IMHO.

Cheers for all you do!

By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
May 28, 2012

For that matter lowering off a 70m is a possibility. My brand new petzl 9.4 70's ends didn't touch the ground. With a climber tied in for a lower and the belayer back a few feet the end will easily go through. I had read the description and made a point to put a blocking knot at the very end of the belay side. It came tight to the Gri Gri before I was standing.

Needs a power wash.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
May 31, 2012

I climbed this today and it was extremely dirty. It will be fun when it cleans up. I love how you can easily tell from the ground where the route goes because there's a cleaned swath right through the moss patch.

I used two 48" slings on the anchors to toprope and the ends of my 70m rope were at about knee level near the ground.

By cdec
From: SLC and Moab, ut
May 31, 2012

I was wondering if we really want to be clearing swaths of moss from cliffs that are so clearly visible.

By Ben Folsom
May 31, 2012

or any cliffs for that matter.

By James Garrett
May 31, 2012

I, too, went back and climbed the route recently, did a bit more cleaning, and made a point of using a different 70m rope and used a good amount of tie-in to boot. I lowered and again both ends of my rope were not only touching the ground, but at least a foot from each end was lying on the ground. So, my two different 70m ropes had plenty to spare.

By Ben Folsom
May 31, 2012

The grade has nothing to do with it James. Impact is more my concern.

By user id
Jun 1, 2012

James Garrett wrote:
I don't expect the 5.12 community to understand this route

You know James, you pull the "5.12 community" card every time someone calls you out. Its becoming a staple reflection of your insecurities. Besides that, you're missing the point. One of the most positive things we can do as climbers is make as little impact as possible.

By Matthew Washburn
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

I really liked this route, kudos James! It can be done with a 60m rope by rappelling to Iraq in the Back Attack and then back down to terra firma. So it can be done with a 60m rope but one needs to be very careful and be very confedent in what they are doing. The route is still a bit dirty but after more people climb it will clean up.

As for when it comes to impact on the enviroment when it comes to beginner sport routes the impact on the enviroment is more detramental then a 5.12 sport route or trad route, unfortunatly this is a fact of this sport. Many of the sport routes that we enjoy do have an impact on the enviroment, once again this is just part of the nature of the sport. In my opinion if you don't like it then don't climb it. Also I would like people to remember that this is a sport of fun, not drama. Keep the love and keep climbing.

By user id
Jun 15, 2012

Matthew- I have no idea what you're talking about. After reading your post, I'm sure you don't either.

The issue here is the negative space, anti-moss highway, that was "paved" into the cliff side. When driving west out of the canyon, it sticks out like a sore thumb. It may eventually blend in, it may not? But if someone wants to make an issue about it, its going to be hard to defend. I remember everyday that climbing is fun, you're preaching to the choir... what is not fun, is route and area closures.

I don't expect that you'd understand any of this, but I do think you'll understand that reducing visual impact is one of the most important things we can do as climbers to maintain and gain access to areas.

To add to the first comment, I don't believe its James' responsibility to alter a route just because its longer than a 60 meter rope length. We need to be cautious and accountable for our own actions regardless of experience. You should never just assume a route is going to accommodate your rope length.

By Brian McKenna
Jun 23, 2012

moss stomping aside, this is a great beginner lead route. very comfortable clipping positions.

definitely need a 70m rope
even with a 70, youll want to be careful to make sure youre rappelling from the mid point of the rope

By rging
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Jul 31, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

The moss comment seems a little nutty to me. The direction the wall is facing does not make that line obvious to see. I have been to that wall several times this summer and just noticed the climb (from the base).