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I Must Be Handicapped in Red Rock: I can't seem to find the red tees?
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Jun 15, 2012
I prefer hoho's.
What does it mean to troll, anyways? Am I doing it right?
And yes, some pawn shops do take gear...
Where's the dirt-bag in you, son?
Find your inner dirt...
Joined Jun 12, 2012
1 points
Jun 17, 2012
mobley wrote:
vegas and st george are the center of soft ratings in North America.

100% agreed. Softer than a treasure troll melting in butter... MmMmMmM
Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined May 8, 2011
240 points
Jun 17, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Colonel Mustard
You are questioning ratings at Red Rock? I would hardly worry about that, the area is a yardstick for nothing. Colonel Mustard
From Sacramento, CA
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,433 points
Jun 17, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: South of Windy Peak
c-ditty wrote:
So..If you can't tell, I am a big pussy cat, what can I say? I've never fallen on gear, and hope I never do. So I just don't want to bail off a $100 piece of equipment someday because I refuse to send on a 5.4. And, since we're being honest, it seems that some local 5.6 ratings are way off, whilest others are right on the money, honey. (I've actually wondered if some of those old timers aren't out there spying on us, laughing as we struggle and curse, hang-dogging a 5.5--which is possible only in RR btw; I bet they're waiting to sneak up and steal our gear when we give up and go home, wherever home is.)

What routes are you talking about? Can you name a single Red Rock route - 5.6 or below - that is sandbagged?
John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 2, 2002
4,393 points
Jun 18, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on top of Chianti Spire
Man, Killis, if knowing stuff makes me gay, you are straight as an arrow. Eric Fjellanger
Joined May 8, 2008
779 points
Jun 19, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Chillin' at City of Rocks
The Dread Pirate Killis wrote:
Ok, I got some ho-hos, twinkies, snickers ice cream bars...what should I feed the troll?

I am from the land of trolls and we were taught to be very careful with these elusive creatures. Of course it is a goof idea to feed them, but don't get them wet, especially not after midnight
Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
459 points
Jun 19, 2012
mobley wrote:
vegas and st george are the center of soft ratings in North America.

Agreed, I can't stand Vegas and its soft ratings. I'd rather go drink a 12 pack by myself than climb on the sandstone garbage. I never know when a foot will snap or piece will blow... I'll stick to the So Cal granite where the YDS system was created. Thank You.
Joined Jun 19, 2012
0 points
Jun 19, 2012
I think every area has different grades. If you want to compare them, then compare to Yosemite, it is the Yosemite decimal system after all. Grades are just a guide line. I'm not an experienced trad climber but the difference between following a 5.9 and leading a 5.4 is tremendous. Unlike sport climbing, trad is mentally taxing in two dimensions, not just the climb but the gear placement. If you're not used to placing gear (like me) you will have to work just as hard on a 5.6 as on a 5.10 for an experienced leader. There's no way you can concentrate and making quality gear placement if you're worried about falling, and how can you not be worried about falling if you're not making quality gear placements!

Again, I'm mostly a sport climber, but whenever I go to a new area I find the easiest routes there and just work my way up. I have no shame climbing a 5.6 sport or 5.3 trad just to get a feel for the rock. I've never climbed in Zion, but I have been there a few times, even though it's similarly colored sandstone I can't imagine it's anything like Red Rock Canyon. Go romp some monster patinas and enjoy the super friction on less than vertical climbing!

Forget the grade and climb what you can and is fun. When you're comfortable with your gear work yourself up to a level where you might actually take a fall! Maybe that fear will help push you to climb harder!
Tyler Quesnel
From Eliot
Joined Apr 19, 2011
61 points

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