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 ADVANCED
Campfire Crag - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banquet T 
Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 
Feast T 
Feminine Itch S 
Fetus, The S 
Fool's Ruby T 
Heart Slab T 
I Love my Marine S 
I Love my Marine, Direct T 
Impatience (AKA A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 
Kundalini- Linguini- Weenie T 
Lunch T 
McAloo Tikki TR 
McChoss TR 
McStain S 
Picnic T 
Shattered S 
Sokolove S 

I Love my Marine 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Brett Pinar, Tim Pinar, Resa Ashbachar, Kat Green, Aaron
Page Views: 2,677
Submitted By: C Miller on Dec 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: I Love My Marine (left) and Direct start (right)

Description 

Start up featured rock passing two bolts and a good knob tie-off to reach a slanting crack (.75 - 1" piece) before heading up and right to a fixed lost arrow piton at the base of the upper slab. Clip the pin and then pass a straight-in crack (1.5 - 2.5" piece) to reach a final bolt just before the anchors.

Fun climbing with a good variety of moves throughout it's length make this a worthwhile route if in the area.

Location 

Between Banquet and Lunch.

Protection 

3 bolts, 1 FP, a couple pieces 1-2.5", slings for tieoffs and a 2 bolt anchor/rap


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By Bryan Davenport
From: 29palms
Jan 18, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Great route for learning Trad
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Nov 21, 2011

Kat Green on the FA.....
By Pete Johnston
From: Irvine, California
Mar 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a very fun climb, but a bit harder than 5.5. The top slab has a 5.6 move before the bolt, and climbing past the first bolt is 5.7, maybe stuff broke off. Good gear is available between the bolts. Great two bolt anchor, a recommended route.
By Kurt Swanson
From: Philadelphia, PA
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

"This is not a sport route"

My realization trying to clip the final bolt 20 feet above an old piton.
By Phil Esra
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.7 at the first bolt, then mostly easier, with an occasional 5.5-5.6 move above.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jul 17, 2013

this route has a few more bolts now;...added by the FA party;...so it is now a safer lead and you need no gear except quick draws...It is a 5.5 sport climb for 5.5 leaders!.....go get some..
By rockcarl
From: Orange County, CA
Nov 29, 2013

Placed a .5 camalot between the second and third bolts, but I don't think it was really necessary. Bolts protect all of the harder moves.
By Steven Reneau
Dec 20, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

6 bolts, 3 above pin, 3 below.