I Love my Marine, Direct 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Todd Gordon |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Dec 12, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: I Love My Marine (left) and Direct start (right)
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Description Steep friction moves up the face lead to a scooped out area and a high bolt below an obvious black intrusion. Move left after clipping the bolt, find the hidden edge and then make a long reach (easier if taller) to the black hold and power over the bulge. Higher, progressively easier moves up and left lead into the 2nd bolt of the regular route, which is followed to the top.
Location Between Banquet and Lunch and 10' right of the normal start.
Protection 3 bolts, 1 FP, a couple pieces 1-2.5", slings for tieoffs and a 2 bolt anchor/rap.
| Comments on I Love my Marine, Direct |
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By Justin Slagle
From: Palm Desert, CA
May 26, 2010
| "5.10c if you're tall, 5.impossible if you're short." |
By Tozankyaku
Mar 12, 2012
| Yes the route is directly below the right bolt and up through the dark spot then over to the bolt... |
By Phil Esra
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.10d
| Crumbly rock. At least 10d at 5'6". |
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Mar 11, 2013
| I believe it to be 5.10+.... |
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