Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mel's Diner
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bleu Plate Especial T 
I Love Brian Piccolo T 
Kickin' Bach T 
Left Mel Crack T 
Mel's Mantles TR 
Modern Jazz T 
Other Voices T 
Right Mel Crack T 
Rock & Roll Girl T 
Roman Pretzel T 

I Love Brian Piccolo 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Quinn McCleod & Brian Sillasen, 9/86
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Feb 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Brian Piccolo circa 1965

Description 

Located on an upper tier buttress to the right of boulder piles. A flaky looking crack that leads to a notch. It can be combined with "Other Voices".

Boulder-hop across from the top of "Other Voices" to find another steep one. Start up a thin crack (cams) to the right of a large thick undercling flake, this leads to a traverse left to the bottom of the main crack. The crack leans leftwards, a big sharp handrail (medium cam in crack) allows you to gain the crack, and good holds and exposed climbing leads to a rest on a large flake on the right. Step left from here and into the crux (small/medium cam) strenuous moves lead to a tricky finish.

Scramble off to the right.

Protection 

Small to medium cams, medium cam anchor.


Photos of I Love Brian Piccolo Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Leading ILBP.  Apr 2015.
Leading ILBP. Apr 2015.

Comments on I Love Brian Piccolo Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Feb 8, 2003

In retrospect I realise that I had more trouble using the "hand-rail" to get into the crack than I did at the crux, although Tony and Mike both breezed through that "hand-rail" section.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 24, 2006

"Brian Piccolo (October 31, 1943 June 16, 1970) was a professional football player for the Chicago Bears for four seasons. He died at the age of 26 from embryonal cell carcinoma, which was found as a very large tumor in his chest cavity. He was the subject of the 1971 movie Brian's Song." ~Wikipedia.org
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awkward climbing on questionable rock. Woot!?
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Apr 2, 2015

thought this was very fun and cool, distinct from the garden variety JT cracks. handrail sequence pretty rad. athletic moves, steep positions, and good pro up the main curving dihedral. like, a sport crack. the PG starting section warrants caution, to negotiate past the big flat downward pointing flake, the only non-solid chunk of rock, with other good placements avail. still a bit heady to string all that together, but it's all there. able to scramble off to climber's left, which seemed quicker to get back to elevated base. prob more convenient to just walk off to climber's right all the way down as mentioned if nothing been left at that terrace base
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!