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Talking Headwall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Muppets T 
Big Balls S 
Continuance S 
Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall) S 
Fat Bastard S 
Foops T 
Fortis S 
I Love Big Jugs S 
I Want a Big Truck T 
Leading Should Feel This Way S 
Little Balls T 
McMurray must be Castrated T 
Ne Plus Ultra S 
Pure Energy S 
unknown, 5.10 S 

I Love Big Jugs 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 5,468
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008  with updates from SwabianAmi

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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BETA PHOTO: Scramble to bolt/to some fun climbing above, short...


Easy 5.6 climbing for the first three bolts leads to the 5.8 crux. There is not a crux move, it is 25 feet of sustained climbing. Great clipping holds for the next two bolts will get you to the anchors.


When looking at the crag this is the bolted line farthest to the left.


5 bolts and ring anchors. I've heard of people setting a cam between the 3rd and 4th bolt, there is definite decking possibilities here. A red BD cam is recommended at the top, before the last bolt to prevent decking in case of a fall.

Photos of I Love Big Jugs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Believe this to be Big Jugs and Ne Ultra Plus
Believe this to be Big Jugs and Ne Ultra Plus

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By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
May 4, 2011

Good Warm up for the area
By Budman252
Jul 7, 2012

Another fun route that you can do without the bolts. Takes great gear!
By Jeff Beavers
May 23, 2016

I definitely recommend the cam if you have any chance of falling. There is a large ledge half way up, and if you fall before the bolt it might as well be a ground fall with some extra tumble.

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