I Just Told You
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Tony Bubb nears the end of 'I Just Told You' (5.10...
This line starts to the left of the moderate cracks on the south end of the west face known as Ranger JB and Ranger JD.
The line starts to the left of these and rises up and right on increasingly difficult terrian to where the crack runs out. There are 3 choices, and in increasing order of difficulty they are:
A) 5.10b: From a tiny pod in the crack where a hand-sized cam can be fidgeted, abandon the seam and climb directly up to a horizontal and traverse from there to the right to gain a well protected handcrack to finish.
B) 5.10d: From that pod, crimp out and right on bad feet to reach a spot where a single very long move can be made directly up to the same horizontal. Your pro is a bit below you and is only so-so. A fall would be exciting.
C) 5.11?: Continue directly in the seam on crumbling rock up and right directly to the bottom of the leaning handcrack up top. Holds are popping off, adding to the difficulty. Your pro is some distance down and left and is not that great. Hope the holds you grabbed are good.
Belay as for the other routes on this end of the rock and descend by rapping from summit anchors.
Without proper attention to protection, someone might get hurt on this line. Pro is available, but it is tricky and strenuous to place. This is not a route to test limits on.1 set of nuts, + cams to 3".
BETA PHOTO: The west face of Sports Challenge Rock as seen fro...
Tony Bubb starts up on lead on 'I Just Told You' (...
From: Culver City, CA
Dec 16, 2013
I was too chicken to push through the crux, as I thought I was warming up on an easier 5.10a. Too likely that I would've decked on the large boulder below. It's too bad the boulders are so close to this route, as the crack/seam actually begins deep in the gully between the main wall and the boulders.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 1, 2014
Gear is often shallow, limited and questionable, our certified leader was doubling up at the crux and not super psyched on what was placed. When it came time to follow I opted for what I guess is "A" above seemed the quickest and most straight forward. Thin & solid edges to available if you need a little added height to reach the horizontal and larger holds above. Rock quality didn't seem to be the problem rather committing moves over questionable gear. Crack up and right very fun but more in line with the neighboring 5.6's found right.