BETA PHOTO: Ant's Line / Bonnie's Roof approach trail....
Along the Cliff
Corners! Aretes! and more corners! Oh boy!
This section starts with its namesake route, High Exposure
, which starts up a major corner and cleft, heads out onto the adjacent face, and ... I won't spoil the rest here. High E
is one of the classic airy Gunks 5.6 routes that you'll remember the rest of your life. Several other, harder classic routes nearby share the High E
"money" pitch, including the Directissima
arete and Directississima
To the right of the High E
buttress start the many corners featured in this section of cliff. Ants' Line
, Bonnie's Roof
are three corners you shouldn't miss! (and if you like those, make sure you head to the next section for The Spring (P1)
Uphill from Groovy
, you'll find In the Groove
, then the gully-to-chimney of Silly Chimney
, which marks the northern extent of this area. Past this, you'll see the yellow rock of the Yellow Wall. Approach:
The trail to High E
scampers up in between boulder problems - as you're walking down the carriage road, look for the Twilight Zone roof, then the next huge buttress over a roof features "The Move" of High E
The next trail
down heads up directly to Ants' Line
, and can also be used for High E
The High E
rappel line was one of the first sets of bolts to appear, courtesy of the Mohonk Preserve. It heads down the gully to climber's right of High E
; three rappels with one rope (if you're linking the last two raps, watch the rope ends) get you to the ground. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with this rappel.
There is a set of bolts shared by the first pitches of Sleepwalk
, Ent Line
and Ants' Line
You can also rappel from the top of Bonnie's Roof
(two ropes mandatory - it's free-hanging the entire way) or Ursula
(one rope from the top to a mid-cliff station).
The P1 anchor for Ursula
, shared by Groovy
is my least favorite in situ anchor on the cliff. It's webbing +/- rope wrapped around some very sharp edges; the fixed stuff has to be replaced almost yearly. Caveat emptor.
: 5.6+, G-PG
Beyond Good and Evil: 5.11-, PG Directissima
: 5.9, G
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout: 5.11, R Ridicullissima
: 5.10c, PG13 Directississima
: 5.10, PG Lakatakissima
: 5.10, R-X (5.8 3rd pitch described)
There is a dedicated, one-rope rappel line just north of High E. (**)
First Trapps Chimney: 5.4, G
Buckets Above: 5.9+, G
Third Trapps Chimney: 5.3, G Obstacle Delusion
: 5.10-, PG Insuhlation
: 5.9, PG Teeny Face
: 5.10a Alpine Diversions
: 5.8, G
Missing, But Not Lost: 5.4, G 50-50
: 5.5, G
60-40: 5.7, PG Lichen Forty Winks
: 5.7, PG Sleepwalk
: 5.7, PG (**) Ent Line
: 5.10d, G (**) Ants' Line
: 5.9, G (**)
Condemned Man: 5.12-, R The Throne
: 5.12-, PG Bonnie's Roof
: 5.9, G-PG
Knockout Drops: 5.11, R Ursula
: 5.5, PG Nose Drops
: 5.9+, PG Groovy
: 5.9-, G Space Invaders
: 5.10+, PG In The Groove
: 5.6, G
In the Silly: 5.3, G
Slipping Into Incipiency: 5.10, R
Silly Groove: 5.9, PG Silly Chimney
: 5.1, G
Weather station 2.2 miles from here
27 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in i. High E
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in i. High E
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for i. High E:
Ursula 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Sleepwalk 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Groovy 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Ants' Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Ent Line 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
The Throne 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For i. High E
Ridicullissima 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
: The Gunks
: ... : i. High E
Your best bet is to do this as one pitch from the ground to the Grand Traverse ledge. Bear gently left from the Directississima start until you come up to the ledge that some books recommend belaying from (I don't - this belay sucks!). From this ledge there is an obvious crack, 5 feet to the left of Doubleissima and 3 feet to the right of the hand traverse of Directissima. Follow a beautiful arching line, almost to the Directissima arete and then back towards the left side of the Doubleissima fa...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
By matt matera
Jun 4, 2012
From the bolts to the right of the summit of High Exposure, three raps on 60m double ropes will get you to the ground.