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 ADVANCED
i. High E

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
50-50 T 
Alpine Diversions T 
Ants' Line T 
Bonnie's Roof T 
Directissima T 
Directississima T 
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 
Ent Line T,TR 
First Trapps Chimney T 
Groovy T 
High Exposure T 
In The Groove T 
In the Silly T 
Insuhlation T 
Lichen Forty Winks T 
Nose Drops T 
Obstacle Delusion T 
Ridicullissima T 
Silly Chimney T 
Sleepwalk T 
Space Invaders T 
Teeny Face T 
Third Trapps Chimney T 
Throne, The T 
Ursula T 

i. High E  


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Location: 41.74421, -74.179 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 321,688
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Mar 7, 2011
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Wider view of climbers on first (or optional secon...

Along the Cliff 

last area: Arrow Wall to CCK | next area: Yellow Wall and the Seasons

Description 

Major Features: Corners! Aretes! and more corners! Oh boy!

This section starts with its namesake route, High Exposure, which starts up a major corner and cleft, heads out onto the adjacent face, and ... I won't spoil the rest here. High E is one of the classic airy Gunks 5.6 routes that you'll remember the rest of your life. Several other, harder classic routes nearby share the High E "money" pitch, including the Directissima arete and Directississima.

To the right of the High E buttress start the many corners featured in this section of cliff. Ants' Line, Bonnie's Roof and Groovy are three corners you shouldn't miss! (and if you like those, make sure you head to the next section for The Spring (P1)).

Uphill from Groovy, you'll find In the Groove, then the gully-to-chimney of Silly Chimney, which marks the northern extent of this area. Past this, you'll see the yellow rock of the Yellow Wall.

Approach: The trail to High E scampers up in between boulder problems (pic to follow) - as you're walking down the carriage road, look for the Twilight Zone roof, then the next huge buttress over a roof features "The Move" of High E.

The next trail down heads up directly to Ants' Line, and can also be used for High E.

Descent: The High E rappel line was one of the first sets of bolts to appear, courtesy of the Mohonk Preserve. It heads down the gully to climber's right of High E; three rappels with one rope (if you're linking the last two raps, watch the rope ends) get you to the ground. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with this rappel.

There is a set of bolts shared by the first pitches of Sleepwalk, Ent Line and Ants' Line.

You can also rappel from the top of Bonnie's Roof (two ropes mandatory - it's free-hanging the entire way) or Ursula (one rope from the top to a mid-cliff station).

The P1 anchor for Ursula, shared by Groovy is my least favorite in situ anchor on the cliff. It's webbing +/- rope wrapped around some very sharp edges; the fixed stuff has to be replaced almost yearly. Caveat emptor.

Routes, left-to-right 

High Exposure: 5.6+, G-PG
Beyond Good and Evil: 5.11-, PG
Directissima: 5.9, G
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout: 5.11, R
Ridicullissima: 5.10c, PG13
Directississima: 5.10, PG
Lakatakissima: 5.10, R-X
There is a dedicated, one-rope rappel line just north of High E. (**)
First Trapps Chimney: 5.4, G
Buckets Above: 5.9+, G
Third Trapps Chimney: 5.3, G
Obstacle Delusion: 5.10-, PG
Insuhlation: 5.9, PG
Teeny Face: 5.10a
Alpine Diversions: 5.8, G
Missing, But Not Lost: 5.4, G
50-50: 5.5, G
60-40: 5.7, PG
Lichen Forty Winks: 5.7, PG
Sleepwalk: 5.7, PG (**)
Ent Line: 5.10d, G (**)
Ants' Line: 5.9, G (**)
Condemned Man: 5.12-, R
The Throne: 5.12-, PG
Bonnie's Roof: 5.9, G-PG
Knockout Drops: 5.11, R
Ursula: 5.5, PG
Nose Drops: 5.9+, PG
Groovy: 5.9-, G
Space Invaders: 5.10+, PG
In The Groove: 5.6, G
In the Silly: 5.3, G
Slipping Into Incipiency: 5.10, R
Silly Groove: 5.9, PG
Silly Chimney: 5.1, G

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',5],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for i. High E:
Ursula   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
High Exposure   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Alpine Diversions   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Groovy   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Bonnie's Roof   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Ants' Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Obstacle Delusion   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
Directissima   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Insuhlation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Teeny Face   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   
Directississima   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Ridicullissima   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Space Invaders   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Ent Line   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
The Throne   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in i. High E

Featured Route For i. High E
An unknown climber on the P2 arete.

Directissima 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E
Directissima is most commonly (if not always) done as a more difficult start to High Exposure. It kicks up the difficulty a few grades, but it delivers a first pitch that is almost as classic as High E's final pitch.1. Begin a little ways right of the original start of High Exposure, near the nose of the buttress. Make a bouldery move up to a ramp and a leaning crack to a low roof, undercling around this roof and around the corner to the right (slick holds, some tricky gear). Continue up the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of i. High E Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown climber on Bonnie's Roof during our Gunks reunion.
Unknown climber on Bonnie's Roof during our Gunks ...
Jeff nearing the top of Groovy
Jeff nearing the top of Groovy
The start of High E
The start of High E
The obvious corner of Ants' Line. The crux is undercling left and then up past the triangular overhang. The belay is on the arete at the skyline. Ent's Line, 11 something, climbs the cracks behind the tree on the left with several variations at the top.  Condemned Man 12a climbs the wall to the right of Ants' Line.
The obvious corner of Ants' Line. The crux is unde...
Just before the crux move on 50-50.
BETA PHOTO: Just before the crux move on 50-50.
Brendan leading Sleepwalk.
Brendan leading Sleepwalk.

Comments on i. High E Add Comment
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By matt matera
Jun 4, 2012
From the bolts to the right of the summit of High Exposure, three raps on 60m double ropes will get you to the ground.