I Have a Dream  5.11

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Type:  Sport, TR, 40 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas Submitted By:  Tony B on Jan 1, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: I Have a Dream from below. The crux is a difficul...

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Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>> Boulder Falls is open to tourists but the slope and approach to Lower Dream Canyon remains closed until further notice. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is found on the lowest tier of Polotinus Wall, leading up to just below the base of Boulder Quartz System. Follow the line of 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with welded cold shuts. The route seems to be about 5.11. If the route cleans up, it will probably feel 5.10. I was scaling a lot off with the feet though. My partner, who is/was pretty solid on 10's, had a hard time with it for the same reason.
The difficulty may come more from the scaling, dirty rock down low than from anything inherent to the moves. I felt more likely to slip off than fall off. The line is short and of dubious quality relative to the others at this cliff. A must do only for the true "route collector."

Protection 

4 bolts to a bolted anchor with set of welded cold-shuts.You could toprope this route by clipping the top from above, just below the ledge as for the start of Boulder Quartz System.

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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, middle.