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I Have a Dream 
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I Have a Dream 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 482
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 1, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: I Have a Dream from below. The crux is a difficul...
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  • Description 

    This route is found on the lowest tier of Polotinus Wall, leading up to just below the base of Boulder Quartz System. Follow the line of 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with welded cold shuts. The route seems to be about 5.11. If the route cleans up, it will probably feel 5.10. I was scaling a lot off with the feet though. My partner, who is/was pretty solid on 10's, had a hard time with it for the same reason.
    The difficulty may come more from the scaling, dirty rock down low than from anything inherent to the moves. I felt more likely to slip off than fall off. The line is short and of dubious quality relative to the others at this cliff. A must do only for the true "route collector."


    Protection 

    4 bolts to a bolted anchor with set of welded cold-shuts.You could toprope this route by clipping the top from above, just below the ledge as for the start of Boulder Quartz System.



    Photos of I Have a Dream Slideshow Add Photo
    Plotinus Wall, middle.
    BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, middle.
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