I had a Good Name, but I forgot 5.11c
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Chloe catching a kneebar after the 1st hard sectio...
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Temporary closure due to falcon nesting 2013 MORE INFO >>>
Though Peregrine Falcons don't nest on this cliff, it's close proximity to Summit Crag means it will be closed for the nesting season. Roughly April through July.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Crux is near the 3rd bolt -solid sustained route may be more like 11+ -well worth getting on this route -interesting/varied moves
Location this route is just left of the 5.12c that climbs the arete -3rd route from the right on The Asylum
Protection bolts, some run out near the end but the bolts are enough
| Comments on I had a Good Name, but I forgot |
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By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jun 11, 2012
| Thanks.It is actually "I had a Good Name...", slight differance. When I was on it last a few years ago, It seemed like it could use a little recleaning, but that was mostly on the upper, easier part. |
By Mike C. Robinson From: Rumney, NH Jun 11, 2012
| title fixed and the route was clean |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Aug 13, 2012 rating: 5.11c
| Amazing climbing! to me its a 4 star route with a 1 star name (sorry mark this gem deserves a bomber name)... one of the best 11s at rumney in my opinion (and ive climbed almost all of them) great flow of movement, powerful and technical, pumpy but with a few rests thrown in there... i milked a sneaky kneebar to the right of the 2nd bolt which made it feel right on in the grade... the lower holds were dusty and i brushed em off on the way down... the top had a little film of growth on it but wasnt bad since its not hard up there... |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Aug 14, 2012
| One of the best 11s at Rumney? I think it is fun and glad you liked it, but you must have been having an awfully good day! : ) |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Aug 14, 2012 rating: 5.11c
| yes mark one of my faves... prompted by your comment i ran some numbers... i know of 103 5.11s at rumney, ive done 93 of them and at long last the list is in! lee's favorite 11's at rumney: apocalypse later black mamba flying hawaiian high roller lions and tigers and bears, oh my nikki's crack prime climb pulse salley's alley the crusher the man with the hueco tropicana and this incredibly fun route! thanks mark! this was just a quick list there are other great one's :) hahaha yes i have way too much time to think! |
By S. Neoh Aug 15, 2012
| A fine list, Lee. Though there are a few on the list that I have yet to sample, I mostly agree with your choices for Rumney's finest. I would however consider removing shorties like Pulse and Heuco and replace them with longer routes. And include Retro Spade, no? |
By twellman Aug 15, 2012
| Retro Spade = 3 boulder problems with full rests between, no? Very quality and uniquely Rumney-esque, no doubt, but if you suggest that the short routes aren't as classic, it's funny that you'd also suggest a route made of stacked boulder problems to replace them! On another note, summit cliff looks stacked with some awesome 11's, and I can't wait to get up there this fall. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Aug 15, 2012 rating: 5.11c
| yeah, to be honest, man with the hueco was the only one i wasnt sure about on the list... pulse has a very solid place on my list even though its short... as far as long routes retro spade and buried treasure were both considered but i couldn't decide... either way its all just a rough list to show the kind of routes i find this one to be on par with :) |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Aug 15, 2012 rating: 5.11c
| and as far as the 11s at summit go, i find them to be great climbs that just dont see enough traffic... a little over grown and dirty or crumbly in spots but if we climb them that will change! The gospel according to mark is my fave... but they are all worth doing... northern lights is the dirtiest and most over grown but if it was clean it would be spectacular! |
By S. Neoh Aug 15, 2012
| Continuing to stay off topic (:)) - Lee, I almost offered Buried Treasure too but I thought the insecure start detracts a bit, not to mention the occasional marauding Raven near the top. Funny, I only remember one really good rest on RS. Perhpas I did not look hard enough. For route description, ChrisD wrote "Classic blunt arete climbing that is unrelenting and not so straight forward." I have to agree. Many routes considred classics at Rumney have one really good rest; Peer Pressure, Social Outcast just to name two from Bonsai alone. And, Lee, how about Machine Head? A little short too but that insecure mantle at the end .... yikes! |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Aug 15, 2012 rating: 5.11c
| Yeah! Machine Head was one i had to think on... that mantel is pretty sweet... i guess that could replace man with the hueco or at least match it... as far as no hands rests, i think thats one of the things that makes a route a rumney classic haha... think of our best routes there are very few that are not stacked boulder problems... many have said rumney is like bouldering on a rope :) |
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