I Dream of Jeannie  5.6 A2

803 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.6 A2 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Orphaned on May 25, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

p1, start in right facing shallow corner and nail kb's up to the rotten band. A bigger poor pin (2") is needed to step up to the free section and past a huge hollow flake. A hook move or two puts you more toward the center of wall and past a couple drilled angles. continue up to the left crack system until you can pendgy to the hanging belay (140').
p2, swing to right system and hook moves to kb placments. Gain the right crack and continue to hanging belay (120')
p3, work left to sandy crack up to drilled angle. one more angle leads to the dead end. A 12' diameter hollow plate keeps upward ascent. If you can get past this, 60' of KB's exist above the plate in what appears to be good rock.

hole count p1 = 2, p2 = 0, p3 = 2, belays 5, total = 9

Location 

left tombstone, Kane Creek

Protection 

standard desert rack, pins to 2"