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Palisade Head
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I Could've Been a Contender 
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Unsorted Routes:

I Could've Been a Contender 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Pagel
Page Views: 364
Submitted By: BIATHLON on Oct 5, 2009
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Description 

Start by climbing a nice finger crack with small edges on either side for the first 20'. Gain the large ledge and choose to either climb the finger/hand crack on the left or the offwidth on the right, or combine both. Probably better to place gear in the hand crack. The last 20-30' is climbing up loose, gravely, broken ledges. The majority of this climb is pretty loose. Rap in with on 50 or 60 meter rope.


Location 

100' feet north of the North Tower in the Northern Ramparts. Just north of Water Babies. Look for open gravel area at the top. #79 in the Falcon guide.


Protection 

Cams Black Diamond #.3-#4. I think I placed doubles of #1 and #2. Anchor setup is long slings around two trees.



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By Sam Daley
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
May 20, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great movement through the middle third of the climb. When leading, just be careful of the lose blocks in the final third of this climb.