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A single set of cams to as big as you have. The bigger the pro you take, the sooner you get gear, though it may require a runner. At least a 3.5"-4" Friend is a good idea.
On the side of the Chicken Boulder facing the parking lot and the cathedral Towers, you will see a crack on the lower end. This starts as a deep and wide flare that pinches down from wide (stemming) to fingers over its length.
The cruxes come when stepping out into the jams, as your feet disappear (physical crux) and then higher as the jams become flaring thin hands with crumbling feet (delicate crux).
My [partner] and I cleaned the route up a little, and it will probably further improve with traffic. However, at present it is not a great climb.
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Oct 4, 2009
Anyone climbed the other side of this analogous crack?
I onsighted it this afternoon just barely. Felt fairly tough, maybe 5.10. I'm not sure it warrants a pg rating but I could be wrong. Short and sweet for sure.