This is a unique climb for the New. Very much feels like it belongs in the Gunks. Begin at the right end of a roof and follow the face to the top passing many horizontals. The beginning wanders a bit. The hardest part is the first 20 Ft or so, from this point the feature get very unique and are really positive. This might not be a great lead for someone breaking into the 5.8 grade, but it's not a hard 5.8 either.
Continue upstream from Orchard wall proper. You will see the Shiny Faces offwidth/roof just before you reach Hysteria.
This takes all kinds of gear. Tri-cams are helpful for the many horizontals, but small cams work well too.
|By Kristan Markey|
From: Washington, DC
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
First tricky move is V2-V3. Placing a small cam (0.3) in the horizontal seam and/or a spotter can help mitigate potential falls.
|By Seth Derr|
From: harrisburg, pa
Jul 3, 2013
The crux is kinda tricky but i wouldn't call it V2-V3. That'd put the climb at 5.11. I found a tri-cam protected that part adequately as well, but i didn't have any small cams on me when i did it, likely the .3 works just as well.