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Orchard Wall
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Artz, Andrew Barry (1985)
Page Views: 913
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Dec 2, 2007
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A. Baldwin on Hysteria

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This is a unique climb for the New. Very much feels like it belongs in the Gunks. Begin at the right end of a roof and follow the face to the top passing many horizontals. The beginning wanders a bit. The hardest part is the first 20 Ft or so, from this point the feature get very unique and are really positive. This might not be a great lead for someone breaking into the 5.8 grade, but it's not a hard 5.8 either.


Continue upstream from Orchard wall proper. You will see the Shiny Faces offwidth/roof just before you reach Hysteria.


This takes all kinds of gear. Tri-cams are helpful for the many horizontals, but small cams work well too.

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By Kristan Markey
From: Washington, DC
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

First tricky move is V2-V3. Placing a small cam (0.3) in the horizontal seam and/or a spotter can help mitigate potential falls.

By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Jul 3, 2013

The crux is kinda tricky but i wouldn't call it V2-V3. That'd put the climb at 5.11. I found a tri-cam protected that part adequately as well, but i didn't have any small cams on me when i did it, likely the .3 works just as well.