|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Mike Artz, Andrew Barry (1985)|
|Submitted By:||Jeremy Steck on Dec 2, 2007|
|Comments on Hysteria||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Kristan Markey
From: Washington, DC
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|First tricky move is V2-V3. Placing a small cam (0.3) in the horizontal seam and/or a spotter can help mitigate potential falls.|
By Seth Derr
From: harrisburg, pa
Jul 3, 2013
|The crux is kinda tricky but i wouldn't call it V2-V3. That'd put the climb at 5.11. I found a tri-cam protected that part adequately as well, but i didn't have any small cams on me when i did it, likely the .3 works just as well.|
From: Charlotte, NC
Jun 13, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opening sequence is stiff and a bit delicate for a 5.8. There is a horizontal seam about 12' up that takes a pink tricam as the initial piece. Having your belayer spot you until then will come in big handy.
Gear: Tricams will come in big handy on this route. Personally, I did not use any nuts on this route. Full rack of cams and tricams will do the trick.
NOTE: as of 06/08/2014, there was an active wasp nest right at the mid-point of the climb --- trust me this is an obvious transition area from the lower part to the upper part of the climb. The nest was adjacent to the small tree/bush at the transition.