This is a unique climb for the New. Very much feels like it belongs in the Gunks. Begin at the right end of a roof and follow the face to the top passing many horizontals. The beginning wanders a bit. The hardest part is the first 20 Ft or so, from this point the feature get very unique and are really positive. This might not be a great lead for someone breaking into the 5.8 grade, but it's not a hard 5.8 either.
Continue upstream from Orchard wall proper. You will see the Shiny Faces offwidth/roof just before you reach Hysteria.
This takes all kinds of gear. Tri-cams are helpful for the many horizontals, but small cams work well too.
|By Kristan Markey|
From: Washington, DC
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First tricky move is V2-V3. Placing a small cam (0.3) in the horizontal seam and/or a spotter can help mitigate potential falls.
|By Seth Derr|
From: harrisburg, pa
Jul 3, 2013
The crux is kinda tricky but i wouldn't call it V2-V3. That'd put the climb at 5.11. I found a tri-cam protected that part adequately as well, but i didn't have any small cams on me when i did it, likely the .3 works just as well.
From: Charlotte, NC
Jun 13, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opening sequence is stiff and a bit delicate for a 5.8. There is a horizontal seam about 12' up that takes a pink tricam as the initial piece. Having your belayer spot you until then will come in big handy.
Gear: Tricams will come in big handy on this route. Personally, I did not use any nuts on this route. Full rack of cams and tricams will do the trick.
NOTE: as of 06/08/2014, there was an active wasp nest right at the mid-point of the climb --- trust me this is an obvious transition area from the lower part to the upper part of the climb. The nest was adjacent to the small tree/bush at the transition.