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I really liked this route. It is steep and strenuous with really good moves and good gear. Some of the rock is suspect and certainly dirty. I had three stars worth of fun, but I'm afraid this one may be destined to obscurity. The hike is long, and the climb is short. The first 15 feet have some loose stuff, but you can avoid it. The crux starts at a little overhang where you can reach up and place bomber nuts in the finger crack above. As you undercling the hollow and fractured flake, keep in mind this whole section might fall off with you on it. Perfect finger locks lead to a wide section. Follow the crack right. A #5 is nice to have here, but you'd be fine with a #4, or you might live with just a #3. When the crack jogs back left there is a giant block that may fall out and kill your belayer, just YARD on it since it's a good "jug". Head up and left (#0.75 or #1 Camalot). You might as well belay here @ a tree since it's really comfy, and you can watch the 2nd. There is a short second pitch (~20 feet) that could be linked with the first. A couple tricky moves but mostly perfect hand jams. At the top of this there is another tree. Rap from here or hike up around the Potato Chip and do that, too. (That way you can justify that #5 you have with you).
Hypothermia is on the South East facing wall of the buttress below the Potato Chip. The easiest way to find it is to hike up the Redgarden wall trail. When you see the walk off, continue for a couple hundred feet along the base until you see the crack.
Standard rack to #4 (optional #5), Tree with slings to rap.
Above the little roof.
Mark trying to not get heat stroke on Hypothermia.
On the second pitch hand crack.
Shaking out on the "death" block.
Cruising up the short pitch 2.
The short 2nd pitch.
|By Jay Eggleston|
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I thought this was a good route with fun moves, but I can't give it more than two stars due to the loose rock and steep, long approach. I would reccomend it though, if you are in the area.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
Nice, steep climbing on course, grippy rock with lots of jamming. If it had the exact same moves but the rock inspired more confidence, it would get more stars. As it stands, it's one of the better routes over on the 'Chip' area and should be reserved for people not pushing their limits. Desperation on this route would be bad- a cool head to evaluate every move and protection point is good.