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 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part F - The Potato Chip
Routes Sorted
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Chives T 
Don't Peel T 
Eye of the Potato T,TR 
French Fry T,S 
Ground Control T 
Hypothermia T 
Idaho Express T 
Mountain Jam T 
Mr. Potato Head S 
Petite Giraffe T 
Poor Man's Wendego T 
Potato Chip Route (Regular Route) T 
Ruffles Have Ridges T 
Sour Cream T 
Treetop Flyer T 

Hypothermia 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tim Beaman, Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare, 1975
Page Views: 374
Submitted By: Mark Roth on May 9, 2011

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Cruising up the short pitch 2.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I really liked this route. It is steep and strenuous with really good moves and good gear. Some of the rock is suspect and certainly dirty. I had three stars worth of fun, but I'm afraid this one may be destined to obscurity. The hike is long, and the climb is short. The first 15 feet have some loose stuff, but you can avoid it. The crux starts at a little overhang where you can reach up and place bomber nuts in the finger crack above. As you undercling the hollow and fractured flake, keep in mind this whole section might fall off with you on it. Perfect finger locks lead to a wide section. Follow the crack right. A #5 is nice to have here, but you'd be fine with a #4, or you might live with just a #3. When the crack jogs back left there is a giant block that may fall out and kill your belayer, just YARD on it since it's a good "jug". Head up and left (#0.75 or #1 Camalot). You might as well belay here @ a tree since it's really comfy, and you can watch the 2nd. There is a short second pitch (~20 feet) that could be linked with the first. A couple tricky moves but mostly perfect hand jams. At the top of this there is another tree. Rap from here or hike up around the Potato Chip and do that, too. (That way you can justify that #5 you have with you).

Location 

Hypothermia is on the South East facing wall of the buttress below the Potato Chip. The easiest way to find it is to hike up the Redgarden wall trail. When you see the walk off, continue for a couple hundred feet along the base until you see the crack.

Protection 

Standard rack to #4 (optional #5), Tree with slings to rap.


Photos of Hypothermia Slideshow Add Photo
On the second pitch hand crack.
On the second pitch hand crack.
Starting up.
Starting up.
The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.
Above the little roof.
Above the little roof.
Shaking out on the "death" block.
Shaking out on the "death" block.
Mark trying to not get heat stroke on Hypothermia.
Mark trying to not get heat stroke on Hypothermia.
The short 2nd pitch.
The short 2nd pitch.

Comments on Hypothermia Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I thought this was a good route with fun moves, but I can't give it more than two stars due to the loose rock and steep, long approach. I would reccomend it though, if you are in the area.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Nice, steep climbing on course, grippy rock with lots of jamming. If it had the exact same moves but the rock inspired more confidence, it would get more stars. As it stands, it's one of the better routes over on the 'Chip' area and should be reserved for people not pushing their limits. Desperation on this route would be bad- a cool head to evaluate every move and protection point is good.