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Laurel Knob
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Gibbet , The 
Girl friend route 
Groover (Fischesser Finish) 
Groover (Gaskin Finish) 
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel 
Have and Not Need 
High & Dry 
Hone Ranger 
Hypocrite's Corner 
Jokers to the right  
Keel Hauled 
Laurel's Girdle 
Legendary "F" Bomb, The 
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Pirate's Cove direct finish 
Puff The Magic Dragon 
Quantum Mechanic's Arete 
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Route Of The Living Dead 
Seconds 
Squirrely man 
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel 
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. 
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Stemming Laurel 
Stingray 
Unfathomable 
Use It Or Luge It 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start 
Walkin' Da Plank 
Wild Turkeys 
Wild Wild West  
Wormhole 

Hypocrite's Corner 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 325'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: See notes
Page Views: 1,228
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Jul 20, 2009
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Lower section on Hypocrite's Corner, Laurel Knob, ...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great route because of it's variety, history, location, controversy and type of climbing it offers. It features a right-facing dihedral on the first pitch, some airy climbing on the second and a crux third pitch that climbs a hand and fist crack to flake pulling at the very top.

Pitch 1: Climb a right angling, right facing corning past a point, a wide section and a bolt. Wrangle up through the trees and belay. 5.9, 130 feet.
Pitch 2: Head up a face to a small roof and work right to the edge and pull up to a ledge. Then climb textured rock past some airy moves over a bulge to another tree. 5.8+/5.9, 120 feet.
Pitch 3: This is what it's all about. From the tree step up and left to a small ledge, next wrestle your way up and in the fist sized crack by either lieback moves or jams. Continue repeating moves with the alternate foot smear, stem, knee bar or whatever to a good stance. The last moves climb the edge of the crack via flakes and a chockstone to another tree.

A bit of history about this route. I believe it was first an aid route done by Peter Engelton? On the route you will notice a couple of very rusty pins. The upper part of this route was done by Shannon Stegg and Wayne Roy, I believe.

One additional note: I don't know the "legality" of this route, ie done with express permission by the CCC, but it is a quality route and should be climbed.


Location 

Up Dillard Canyon on the left hand side. Look for one of the only dihedrals around there...about 1/2 way up the canyon.


Protection 

Trad, baby...bring some big stuff. I think we had doubles of #1-#3 camalots and a #3.5 or 4. Slings on trees for rap.



Photos of Hypocrite's Corner Slideshow Add Photo
The upper 2/3 of the H.C. buttress.
BETA PHOTO: The upper 2/3 of the H.C. buttress.
Rhett starting P2. The next 80' climb a clean, wide corner crack.
Rhett starting P2. The next 80' climb a clean, wid...
Comments on Hypocrite's Corner Add Comment
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By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Jul 20, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Fun route. Obviously quite a different feel than most LK routes. Really, an anomaly for the area...but fun, fun.