This is a great route because of it's variety, history, location, controversy and type of climbing it offers. It features a right-facing dihedral on the first pitch, some airy climbing on the second and a crux third pitch that climbs a hand and fist crack to flake pulling at the very top.
Pitch 1: Climb a right angling, right facing corning past a point, a wide section and a bolt. Wrangle up through the trees and belay. 5.9, 130 feet.
Pitch 2: Head up a face to a small roof and work right to the edge and pull up to a ledge. Then climb textured rock past some airy moves over a bulge to another tree. 5.8+/5.9, 120 feet.
Pitch 3: This is what it's all about. From the tree step up and left to a small ledge, next wrestle your way up and in the fist sized crack by either lieback moves or jams. Continue repeating moves with the alternate foot smear, stem, knee bar or whatever to a good stance. The last moves climb the edge of the crack via flakes and a chockstone to another tree.
A bit of history about this route. I believe it was first an aid route done by Peter Engelton? On the route you will notice a couple of very rusty pins. The upper part of this route was done by Shannon Stegg and Wayne Roy, I believe.
One additional note: I don't know the "legality" of this route, ie done with express permission by the CCC, but it is a quality route and should be climbed.
Up Dillard Canyon on the left hand side. Look for one of the only dihedrals around there...about 1/2 way up the canyon.
Trad, baby...bring some big stuff. I think we had doubles of #1-#3 camalots and a #3.5 or 4. Slings on trees for rap.
BETA PHOTO: The upper 2/3 of the H.C. buttress.
Rhett starting P2. The next 80' climb a clean, wid...
From: The Deeper South
Jul 20, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Fun route. Obviously quite a different feel than most LK routes. Really, an anomaly for the area...but fun, fun.