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A beguiling, I-think-I-can-do-that offwidth that seems to prove most people wrong.
Start w/ 5.9 hands to fist. Then a one move transitional pod, and finally about 12' of overhanging, leaning perfect 4.5 Camalot. Ends with a couple of easy moves and chains. If you have fat knees, this climb could be pretty tough, though at least they won't be bruised the next day.
The obvious wide crack on the southernmost, lowest section of Nightmare Rock. This is the first part of NM one encounters on the trail from the road.
Camalots: 1-#2, 2-#3, 1 or 2 #4, 1 #4.5. A #5 C4 would probably work instead of the 4.5. A #6 will not fit throughout most, if not all, of the crux.
By Mark van Eijk
Apr 22, 2015
A very clean, aesthetic line that is rarely crowded. Also a great exercise in stacking and a very logical progression from split beaver. Like its little brother, most of the difficulties lie in the last third, but they are more sustained, on steeper rock, and with fewer features to offer solace.
Starts with 30 feet of splitter crack that slowly opens from perfect to cupped to fist. A few good features in the crack grant access to a body-sized pod and a rest. From here you are confronted with a very strenuous transition to the upper crack, which for me was just too small for a knee. A desperate calf-lock allows for progress to the final 15 feet of sustained hand-fist stacks and tight knees. Wear jeans!
In new camalot sizes you can sew it up on 1-#2, 2#3, 2#4, and 2#5. The top will not take a 6.
By Chris Elliott
May 10, 2016
But you can put a #6 in the rest pod... which is highly recommended so you don't get caught up fiddling with gear too much in the #5 section.