|Type:||Trad, 7 pitches, 800', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||blakeherrington on Oct 16, 2008|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Hyperspace||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Neil Kauffman
Sep 30, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
|This is an excellent route; lots of physical crack climbing with amazing positions and exposure! The style reminded me of the Rostrum but easier. I felt the 5.11a Psychopath pitch was more like 10+ after taking the knob exit left. The "overhung blocky face" on P4 is pumpy but has rests. More traffic could really clean this beauty up, some lichen but nothing serious. Great description Blake! Get some!!|
Sep 11, 2010
A few suggestions. Beta alert! Don't read if you don't want move beta...
Psychopath: I would avoid moving all the way left onto the knobs. Just grab the first knob with your left hand and keep climbing up. This avoids a barn door and awkward move back to the crack.
P4: We climbed the steep wall right of the corner. Great climbing. Protects well. Highly recommended. Use lots of long runners.
Pressure chamber: We climbed this in one long pitch to just below the final roof. I had terrible rope drag. Runner this pitch well too. Blake's description of the pressure chamber move is spot on. I'd go left side in for the move out of the chamber. Using the good face holds to reach out to the other wall. Don't try to squeeze. Practice your stemming before this route ya'll.
The "foot ledge" Blake describes is about 2 inches wide. It's about 7' below the final roof just left of the corner. It's very small. I found the belay is best here with a #2 Camalot and some medium/large nuts. Very exposed belay.
Gear: I never placed a #4 camalot and would not bring one again. Not to say you couldn't but I never needed it. One #3 seemed sufficient. I'd bring 3 .75's next time. It seemed like I always needed another. This route accepts bomber nuts. Bring a good size stopper rack. Tiny to big and lots of runners. Next time I'd bring 20 runners. Might seem like a lot but on the 40m pitches you'll be glad you've got them.
Best route I've done in Icicle creek. A great warm up for the Valley.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jun 3, 2013
Thought I would add some pertinent information. This route has a lot of loose/suspect rock, especially after the “death block”. I wouldn’t be surprised if it sheds again like the rock fall scar next to the death block-(WHICH IS SCARY!!!) Please climb this route with care to avoid trundling rock down the face..I wouldn’t stand below this route! There are soccer sized blocks residing in some of the cracks and smaller blocks are plenty. There are flakes that can pull off or sound hollow. Careful were you stand/pull/place pro. Just aware.
With that said, there is some beautiful climbing on this route, especially when adding the psychopath pitch. We followed Blakes description and recommend belaying just below the exit moves if 10d++ isn’t your OS level. One recommendation is to brake-up the pitch after the death block into 2.
Never needed the #4, doubles of #2 and down, single #3, aliens work great. Lots of runners
Very sustained route, has full on alpine+index feel.
Jun 6, 2013
|I did this route in 1999 - 00 can't remember which but I remember thinking the same on the two pitches after psychopath pitch . Sounds like this climb is in need of some TLC.|
From: Wenatchee, WA
Oct 30, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
|I climbed this route five times this year, it's that good! The three pitches of Hyperspace (for us) are excellent, and combined with the Iconoclast pitches (Psychopath and 5.11 Yellow Wall pitch) is probably the best cragging outing you can have in Leavenworth. The first pitch of Hyperspace (belaying from the chain anchor above the Yellow Wall pitch) has a hatchet shaped block that is barely adhered to the wall. It's probably a few hundred pounds of death waiting to rain down on you. I would recommend you neither touch it nor place any pro behind it. If you do, it's at your and your belayer's peril, as it sits ~50' directly above the chain anchor.|
May 18, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|Just climbed this today with John Plotz and Mark Shaffer (seconds simul-followed)...probably about my 12th ascent. This climb RULES HARD!!! Can't add much to what has already been posted. It's just brilliant, wild, butyl, technical climbing with really sick exposure in places! One of the best routes I have ever done anywhere...and that is after 37 years of avid rock climbing. Tom Michael.|