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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barrel of Monkeys 
Bloke On The Side 
Bridget the Midget 
Byway 
Chick on the Side 
Conversions 
Court Jester 
Crazy Stairs 
Curving Dihedral 
Dandi-Line 
Dead Letter Department 
Drug Abuse 
Erickson's Finish 
False Prophet 
Fever, The 
Going Postal 
Good Ship Venus 
Handcracker Direct 
Hanging Chad 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 
Human Factor, The 
Hyperspace Roundup 
Ignominity 
Ignore Me 
Iron Horse 
Knife, The 
Lightning Bolt Crack 
Lost in the Netherlands 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up 
Mail Ridge, The 
Mesca-Line 
Muscle and Hate 
Pony Express 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation 
Practice Climb 101 
Practice Wall 
Prison Sex 
Pygmy Pony 
Quick Silver 
Quicksand 
Quiet Desperation 
Reckoning 
Rhombohedral 
Seemingly Innocent 
Side Wall, The 
Sister Morphine 
Sooberb 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Hyperspace Roundup 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Brooks, 1982 FFA Charlie Fowler and J. Huggins, 1986
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 672
Submitted By: Paul S on Jul 3, 2007
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I loved this route, the only problem is that it is a little short... It takes the shallow dihedral just left of the variation to Mail Ridge via two bolts and a fixed nut at the top to a bolted anchor. The shallow dihedral makes a W with the dihedral being the middle of the W and the aretes being the bottom points of the W...if that makes sense...the climb is possible from slanting crimps on the face left of the left arete, and slapping up the right arete while using the dihedral and smears for your feet, I loved it!


Location 

Starts just left of Mail Ridge.


Protection 

There are two good bolts on this route with a fixed nut for the exit moves out of the dihedral. A RP or two can be placed before the 1st bolt.

A TR can be set up by climbing the 1st half of the variation to Mail Ridge and just moving left before going into the 2nd dihedral of that route.



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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 25, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b PG13

Did this one a long time ago- memory is vague, but what I recall is that it cut my finger tips and was pretty painful. The moves were difficult, but not terribly hard if you could block out the pain. As such, it was not super-fun.
Getting to the first bolt probably merits the PG-13 rating, but it is not the crux.