|West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
I loved this route, the only problem is that it is a little short... It takes the shallow dihedral just left of the variation to Mail Ridge via two bolts and a fixed nut at the top to a bolted anchor. The shallow dihedral makes a W with the dihedral being the middle of the W and the aretes being the bottom points of the W...if that makes sense...the climb is possible from slanting crimps on the face left of the left arete, and slapping up the right arete while using the dihedral and smears for your feet, I loved it!
Starts just left of Mail Ridge.
There are two good bolts on this route with a fixed nut for the exit moves out of the dihedral. A RP or two can be placed before the 1st bolt.
A TR can be set up by climbing the 1st half of the variation to Mail Ridge and just moving left before going into the 2nd dihedral of that route.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 25, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b PG13
Did this one a long time ago- memory is vague, but what I recall is that it cut my finger tips and was pretty painful. The moves were difficult, but not terribly hard if you could block out the pain. As such, it was not super-fun.
Getting to the first bolt probably merits the PG-13 rating, but it is not the crux.