The most obvious start on the Olympus boulder:
-Hype would get 4 stars if the right hand crimps werenít so damn small and aggressive.
Find the massive scoop out of the roof (below Hyperion Crack, to the right of Aethos ArÍte) and sit start here on the low jug (low right corner of the scoop below the overhead crack). Work up through compression moves using the slopey corner and the wicked fingertip crimps out right. Climb into the crack overhead.
Once at the jug at the top of the crack (at the little Rhododendron tree) head right into the high crimps of "FSM", make the big move to the jug/s overhead, and top the boulder out.
-NOTE: This line was NOT climbed with a knee pad... I donít know if it would actually help but it may(?) take several grades off?? I have no clue. By all means use one, but this is grade is applied to this line without one (I never felt the need to ever use my knee or that it wouldve helped).
Also: please donít climb up direct above the Rhodo. This will hurt the nice tree and the blocks above look sketch. Make the hard right moves into FSM and embrace the difficulty.
lots of pads and spotters
Hype: Last photo the camera took in the action sho...
|By Michael Plesser|
Jul 27, 2014
Psyched on this thing. Gave it about four go's and got fairly close with mono beta(!) Just curious, saw this got v9 in the guidebook, is that the general consensus now? Just wondering. Feels like 3 stars to me!
|By Aaron James Parlier|
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Jul 28, 2014
I'm still waiting for a good consensus from 5 or 6 others on this one. I know several folks who have worked on it and its somewhere in the v9/10 grade range. I feel like it is harder than several area v9s (sigourny weaver/frites/lifestyles)and plenty of Boone area lines of the grade, but I also didnt try it with a mono... which sounds pretty hard haha! Let me know what you think. As of guidebook time no one had repeted it so I went with v9 as a safe sandbag. Nice work!