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The Elephant's Head (& Hyperion Slab)
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Hyperion 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1998 Savage
Season: 4
Page Views: 2,538
Submitted By: Spider Savage on Jan 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Eddie pulls the crux move on Hyperion (getting ove...

Description 

Crux is 25 feet from the ground on the first pitch. It's mostly much easier than 5.7. I call it "sustained 5.2." First pitch is a full rope length. NO 80 ft belay here. This route is not a sport climb. It's an adventure route. Designed to be a direct line to the summit. 20 to 30 ft run outs up high. All the other routes have 80 ft belay stations for sport. Lots of ways to get down if you know the area.

Location 

Right up the center of Hyperion Slab.

Protection 

Quickdraws only. Its fully bolted. Someone added a bolt at the crux. Must've been scared.


Photos of Hyperion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting established on the slab, above the crux of...
Getting established on the slab, above the crux of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eddie leading Hyperion (5.7)
Eddie leading Hyperion (5.7)
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the crux bulge and on the upper slab of &q...
Pulling the crux bulge and on the upper slab of &q...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scoping out the crux of "Hyperion."
Scoping out the crux of "Hyperion."
Rock Climbing Photo: Leader considering the crux of "Hyperion.&quo...
Leader considering the crux of "Hyperion.&quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leader just past the crux of "Hyperion" ...
Leader just past the crux of "Hyperion" ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Negotiating the lower slab on "Hyperion."...
Negotiating the lower slab on "Hyperion."...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising up "Hyperion" on the south face...
Cruising up "Hyperion" on the south face...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leader pulling the crux on "Hyperion."
Leader pulling the crux on "Hyperion."
Rock Climbing Photo: A party utilizing double ropes on "Hyperion.&...
A party utilizing double ropes on "Hyperion.&...
Rock Climbing Photo: An experienced climber using the 1st bolt and the ...
An experienced climber using the 1st bolt and the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A party at the P1 anchor on "Hyperion."
A party at the P1 anchor on "Hyperion."

Comments on Hyperion Add Comment
Show which comments
By randy88fj62
Jan 24, 2011

Climbed the 2 pitches on 1\23\11. First belay anchor has 2 bolts, one of which has a spinning hangar. Second pitch was easy and had good bolts at the top. Most of the bolts on this multipitch climb are 5/16" grade 5.
The bolt at the bottom crux / overhang was well positioned and allowed me to lead without any risk.

NOTE: Bring TWO ropes as the first belay station is rather high and cannot be rapped off of with a 70m rope.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jan 24, 2011

You can rap off with a single rope, but you have to rap over to the belay of Gold Line (To the right) and then make a second rap down to the ground.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There is currently a single bolt, in an inclusion, at the crux of "Hyperion." Seems very solid, once it was tightened down. It protects the crux very well. There is a 2-ring Fixe anchor at 95 ft. to facilitate a single rope rappel with a 60 meter rope.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

A very fine route, with a fun sequence right past the overlap then continuous climbing to the first hanging belay, then eases a couple of notches but more runout, continuous again to the summit.
By Fixius
From: Sherman Oaks, California
Oct 22, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I recommend rapping down Agua Negro back into the canyon. It's slightly less annoying than whipping your rope down the slab.

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