|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Les Ellison, Dirk Tyler & Lynn Wheeler, 1978|
|Page Views: ||1,556|
|Submitted By: ||JFA on Aug 23, 2008|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Wheels at the crux, near the end of the second pit...
This route starts in the prominent dihedral towards the left end of the wall.
P1. Jam up a long corner with two pods providing difficulties.
P2. Short pitch. A fingercrack leads to a pumpy rightward shuffle to a belay ledge.
P3. The obvious wide crack staring at you. It's nice to have a cam bigger than a #4 Friend on this pitch.
P4. Stacked vertical blocks. Though scary looking, there is decent pro and the climbing is much easier than the previous pitches.
Double set stoppers/cams. One #4 Camalot or equivalent for third pitch.
Pitch 3 wide crack
pitch 1 corner
Pitch 2 chimney before the cruxy traverse
Looking down the corner. Sweet!
Pitch 2 chimney on left, with the crux traverse in...
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2012
How hasn't anyone commented on this route yet? The book gives this one 3 stars as it should. Superb route. Great rock quality, great belay ledges, bomber gear, do this one!
Pitch 1-mostly hands/wide hands. Use your #2-#3 camalots wisely here. A #4 camalot is also useful for one of the crux pods. A full 200' pitch here. We had a 70m and it only had 20 feet or so left starting on the ground. You can start higher on the big block too. Great belay ledge on top of pitch 1, with a fixed sling/nut thing or use small tcu sized gear for belay.
Pitch 2- Chimney start with about 3 crack sizes for gear. This leads to cruxy thin finger locks(long reach helpful) to the horizontal hand traverse. Be ready with a .75/1 camalot here. Punch it to the right. Short pitch, zesty. #3 camalots for belay.
Pitch 3- Wide hands for about 30 feet. A few nut placements and one blue tcu option exist in cracks out right, but obviously you will need 2 #3 camalots for this section. I found a #4 was too big for most of the crack but fits near the roof, and is helpful on pitch 1 as well. No need to fret though if you don't have one. Then romp up the loose stacked blocks to the top. Walk off west for 10 minutes, then find easy downclimb and back to your packs.