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Hyperform Wall
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Hyperform 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Les Ellison, Dirk Tyler & Lynn Wheeler, 1978
Page Views: 1,952
Submitted By: beerdrinker on Aug 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Wheels at the crux, near the end of the second pit...

Description 

This route starts in the prominent dihedral towards the left end of the wall.

P1. Jam up a long corner with two pods providing difficulties.

P2. Short pitch. A fingercrack leads to a pumpy rightward shuffle to a belay ledge.

P3. The obvious wide crack staring at you. It's nice to have a cam bigger than a #4 Friend on this pitch.

P4. Stacked vertical blocks. Though scary looking, there is decent pro and the climbing is much easier than the previous pitches.

Protection 

Double set stoppers/cams. One #4 Camalot or equivalent for third pitch.


Photos of Hyperform Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 3 wide crack
Pitch 3 wide crack
pitch 1 corner
pitch 1 corner
Pitch 2 chimney before the cruxy traverse
Pitch 2 chimney before the cruxy traverse
Looking down the corner. Sweet!
Looking down the corner. Sweet!
Pitch 2 chimney on left, with the crux traverse inbetween the 2 black spots.
Pitch 2 chimney on left, with the crux traverse in...

Comments on Hyperform Add Comment
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By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2012

How hasn't anyone commented on this route yet? The book gives this one 3 stars as it should. Superb route. Great rock quality, great belay ledges, bomber gear, do this one!

Pitch 1-mostly hands/wide hands. Use your #2-#3 camalots wisely here. A #4 camalot is also useful for one of the crux pods. A full 200' pitch here. We had a 70m and it only had 20 feet or so left starting on the ground. You can start higher on the big block too. Great belay ledge on top of pitch 1, with a fixed sling/nut thing or use small tcu sized gear for belay.
Pitch 2- Chimney start with about 3 crack sizes for gear. This leads to cruxy thin finger locks(long reach helpful) to the horizontal hand traverse. Be ready with a .75/1 camalot here. Punch it to the right. Short pitch, zesty. #3 camalots for belay.
Pitch 3- Wide hands for about 30 feet. A few nut placements and one blue tcu option exist in cracks out right, but obviously you will need 2 #3 camalots for this section. I found a #4 was too big for most of the crack but fits near the roof, and is helpful on pitch 1 as well. No need to fret though if you don't have one. Then romp up the loose stacked blocks to the top. Walk off west for 10 minutes, then find easy downclimb and back to your packs.
By kalockwood
From: SLC, UT
Jun 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If you're up in the cirque, definitely go get on this climb. This route is just as classic as the center thumb or Lowe route with excellent varied climbing. The first pitch is looong so conserve those #2's and #3's. The corner on P1 is like the start of the Lowe route but longer and more sustained.
By Mr. Hummus
From: SLC, Utah
Jun 30, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree with the previous comments. This is one of the best routes in the cirque. Don't stand in line to get on triple overhangs or center thumb, this route is generally empty and is probably even better climbing.
I did use the #4 camalot on pitch one and three. You could get by without it, but it makes the pitch 3 crux way less scary. If I would have had three #3 camalots, they would have been used, but I was fine with two. Also, linked pitch 3-4 with no problem. All in all, I loved this route and would recommend it to anyone comfortable at 5.10.
By Derrick W
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The first pitch has got to be the best handcrack in the Wasatch. Bring doubles (at least) of 2 and 3 or be prepared to run it out. The last pitch is not so great.