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Climb compact granite clipping bolts to the roof. Pull through the strenuous roof crux moves and now that you are well above your last bolt reach for your gear. The climbing is easier (5.9 ish) and pretty much adequately protected. Traverse slightly left and follow cracks to fixed anchor at top.
A good mix of physical and mental fun.
This route is left of center on the chunk of rock with the large roof about 100 yards upstream from the knotted rope. Look for bolts leading to a weakness in the roof.
One of everything to #3 Camalot, although one larger cam might be helpful.
Sep 22, 2008
This route is called the Hymanizer.
Aug 19, 2012
Really fun climbing, but the rock is pretty loose.
The climbing above the roof is mostly easier (5.8-9), but be heads up with your gear. There is a lot of loose blocks and most of the obvious places for gear where behind these blocks. There are a couple of good placements, but you'll want to be comfortable running it out on questionable rock.
Good training for climbing in the San Juans :)