Hydrotube would be a classic climb anywhere and is one of the most unique climbs you'll find in Oregon.
Pitch 1: (5.8+) Begin up the middle of the obvious tube on well placed bolts. The crux comes midway up this first pitch with a few friction moves and edges and quickly eases off as the angle decreases. Belay at ledge to the left of the tube on beefy anchors.
Pitch 2: Step right from the anchors and climb up a few dicey moves until it eases off considerably. Continue straight up another steep section (15ft) and scramble to the summit.
Walk off down trail to the right or rappel with two ropes.
Take many draws as the first pitch is long. All anchors are well bolted.
A 60m will barely make it down from the first pitch anchors.
Karsten climbing Hydrotube.
Casey Vavrino climbing. He took a good fall leadin...
Top looking down on the second pitch of Hydrotube.
|By Aaron Hobson|
From: Las Cruces, NM
Mar 20, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Even without any prior knowledge of this area, this route stands out as a unique climb. I followed Tim Toula's 1995 Rock and Road to this cliff while I was working as a bird bander in the national forest here. At first I couldn't even find the crag. T. Toula's mileage didn't jive with my odometer, and there are many forest roads to lead one astray. When I finally found this wonderful crag, Hydrotube was the first route I attempted. It is simply a beautiful route. I remember it being more difficult than 5.8+ though. Maybe this is because I had no idea of the grade before hand, or that the rock was unfamiliar to me, but when I took another climber here to try this route, he thought that it would be rated 5.10-. Well, he was from Nebraska. I'm curious as to how this route compares to its neighbors. I never learned what they were graded.
Oct 27, 2009
This route was unfortunately retrobolted several years ago, it was perfectly safe when I first lead it in about 1993 (not the FA). Does anyone know who or why more bolts were added?
From: Bend, Oregon
Feb 25, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Great place to climb! Hydrotube was a lot better than I expected. I didn't know it was retrobolted...
|By Dylan Colon|
From: Eugene, OR
Dec 29, 2013
I spoke with one of the first acensionists last summer, and he assured me that while bolts have been replaced, they are in the same place that they were on the F.A. The route is safe but a bit spicy, and while runout on the upper easy slab if you can do the lower part it should be safe enough.