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The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)
Routes Sorted
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Angel of Death (formerly listed as Drink to Puke), The S 
Beer Belly T 
Hydraulic Sandwich S 
Icy Paralyzer S 

Hydraulic Sandwich 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, 1996.
Page Views: 1,017
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 22, 2002

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As you hike the approach, this climb looks way low...

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the leftmost of three bolted lines on the Beer Can. It turns the big roof on the left.

From the top of the Beer Can approach trail, scramble up to a small ledge with a 2-bolt belay anchor on the left side of the Beer Can.

Start with some easy climbing up and right, zig-zagging towards the left side of the huge roof. It's a good idea to use longer runners on these initial bolts. Clip the 5th bolt underneath the roof, and make an airy move out right on jugs (5.9) over the roof. Clip the 6th bolt, then unclip the 5th bolt to minimize rope drag and keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the roof. Above, the wall steepens and some thin face moves (5.10b) are needed to reach the anchor.

Protection 

2-bolt belay anchor. 12 bolts to a three-bolt anchor. Bring several longer runners and a 60m rope.


Photos of Hydraulic Sandwich Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the roof....
Above the roof....
Rock Climbing Photo: On the exciting but not too hard swing around the ...
On the exciting but not too hard swing around the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hydraulic Sandwich viewed from the approach trail....
BETA PHOTO: Hydraulic Sandwich viewed from the approach trail....
Rock Climbing Photo: This ridiculously high step didn't work, but it lo...
This ridiculously high step didn't work, but it lo...
Rock Climbing Photo: High on the climb.
High on the climb.

Comments on Hydraulic Sandwich Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 16, 2003

Everyone should go to hydraulicsandwich.com for more details!!!
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 29, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Turning the roof is exciting, but not too hard. I did not unclip the bolt protecting the roof and instead used a long runner. But the first bolt above the roof caused the rope to run around a small corner, and that caused some serious drag later. So maybe unclip the bolt above the roof after clipping the bolt above that.

Clipping the bolt above the big sloping ledge was scary for me. It's a long reach (and I'm tall), and you're a long way above the previous bolt. You have good edge for one hand, but you have to smear up with your feet to make the reach (or worse if you're short). If you blew the clip, you'd come flying over the roof and probably hit the wall below. If you're having trouble making this clip, you can traverse right on the sloping ledge and temporarily clip a bolt on Icy Paralyzer.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 10, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The roof is a fun "no feet" swing through. Why not use feet? Because you don't have to. Monkey-bar like holds don't need them.The crux is up above on the slab and face. Edging shoes or crimping dues, your choice.
By Tombo
From: Boulder
Apr 23, 2012

I agree with Ivan's statement on clipping the bolt above the sloping ledge, it's commiting. I'm 5'6" on a good day and had to use a 6" cheater to clip it after moving up a bit on the crimps. Without it, I would have had to do a really scary move to clip. Other than that, a really fun climb.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 25, 2015

Clipping the bolt above the sloping ledge is committing. The swing at the roof is fun!

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