This is the first route right of 4x4. The left of the duo of twin splitters up offsets (the right being Crankcase).
The crux is the first changing corners and is pretty burly, above this it's just a matter of hanging on...
Lots of 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots. A 0.4 is nice for the move to the chains.
|By Josh Ewing|
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 16, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
One of the best. The difficulty really does depend on how much gear you place. The anchors are pretty mank. I'll replace them the next time I'm there, but if anyone beats me to it, let me know.
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
First changing corners is definitely the crux, especially if you have small hands and purple juniors is your worst size ;) But, you get rewarded with a few good thin hand jams in the relentless layback.
Apr 13, 2012
The plaque said 11+ when I saw it...seems not far off.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b
Was just on this route a couple days ago going for the redpoint and I screwed myself by not taking the right amount of gear. So I figured I'd list the gear beta for anyone considering giving this route a go.
All gear is in Camalots
(2).4, (9).5 & (6).75
This should sew it up.
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Nov 19, 2012
Steve our gear is a lil different...
I placed in order
2 red Metolious,
and a grey alien
It really does help to have your gear dialed on this thing..Stoping is kinda hard. But moving is kinda easy