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Hyalite Canyon

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Dribbles Area 
Fins, The 
Genesis Area 
Mummy Area 
Overhangatang Boulders 
Palisade Area 
Practice Rock 
Scottish Cliffs 
Swamp Rock 
Twin Falls Area 
Unnamed Wall, The 
Winter Dance Area 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

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Lower Wapiti Trail #35
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Hyalite Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Location: 45.48986, -110.97951 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,765
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe Josephson on Oct 31, 2008

Memorial Day

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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Hyalite Reservoir November 2010

Potential road closures in winter. MORE INFO >>>


With over 150 ice routes in less than 3 square miles, Hyalite Canyon represents the most concentrated, natural ice climbing venue in North America.

Home to all-time classics like "Cleopatra's Needle," "Black Magic," "Mummy Cooler," "Winter Dance," one of the top ten routes in the world (yes I said world), Hyalite is unique in every sense of that word.

The South Fork (Cody) might have more vertical but it's spread out and inconsistent with scrappy approaches. Keystone Canyon and Lake Willoughby certainly vie for the densest cliffs on the continent except for perhaps a few fjords in Newfoundland and Quebec once every 10 years. Ouray has way more concentrated ice than anywhere but most of it is in the ice park; the climbing equivalent of farm raised salmon (and about as overcrowded). Of course the Canadian Rockies, both the Mecca and Medina of the frozen world, has over 10 times the number of routes and all of them longer – but over an area roughly the size of Maryland. North Conway has killer ice; when it's not raining. I've been to them all so cut it anyway you like, declare yourself a hero because you prefer long alpine or mixed climbs, stir in whatever hyperbole you favor and pass the single malt; Hyalite is the most concentrated, easily accessible and consistent ice climbing venue in North America. And I'm not the only widely-traveled climber to say it's our favorite too.

Getting There 

South of Bozeman, MT about 45 minutes from Downtown, depending on road conditions. Routes range from 10 minutes to 2 hours from the car.
"Winter Dance" is the definitive guidebook in full color.

Climbing Season

Weather station 12.8 miles from here

84 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',38],['2 Stars',25],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hyalite Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hyalite Canyon:
Genesis II   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 115'   Genesis Area
The Thrill is Gone   M4     Mixed, 1 pitch, 205'   The Unnamed Wall
Twin Falls Left + Right   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Twin Falls Area
Hang Over   WI3     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 50'   Genesis Area
Lower Green Sleeves   WI2+     TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   Genesis Area
Mummy II   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 140'   Mummy Area
Genesis I   WI3+     TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   Genesis Area
Cleopatra's Needle   WI5     Ice, 3 pitches, 250'   Twin Falls Area
The Scepter   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Mummy Area
The Dribbles   WI4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450'   Dribbles Area
The Elevator Shaft   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 115'   The Unnamed Wall
Winter Dance   WI5-6 M8     Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches, 450'   Winter Dance Area
White Horse   V6 7A     Boulder   Overhangatang Boulders
5.6 Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Practice Rock
Strawberry Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Practice Rock
Blind Black Babies   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Practice Rock
Wizards Well   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Practice Rock
Theoretically   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Practice Rock
Tough Trip Through Paradise   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Practice Rock
Cardiac Arete   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Practice Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hyalite Canyon

Featured Route For Hyalite Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick rappelling, 2nd and 3rd pitches are visible.

Cleopatra's Needle WI5  MT : Hyalite Canyon : Twin Falls Area
Follow the Twin Falls trail up to the base of the route, impossible to miss as long as you are on the correct trail.This route is typically climbed in 3 pitches though pitches 1+2 or 2+3 could be combined with a 70m rope. Pitch 1: (WI4) Climb the initial curtain up the the ledge directly under the main pillar.Pitch 2: (WI5) Climb up the main pillar to a cave-like feature, belay here.Pitch 3: (WI4) Continue up to the top, belay at tree.Either rappel the entire route with two 70m ropes or do a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

Photos of Hyalite Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: School Project
School Project
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunny Hyalite Goods
Sunny Hyalite Goods
Rock Climbing Photo: Responsible Family Men in splitter conditions
Responsible Family Men in splitter conditions
Rock Climbing Photo: Rough map of the more popular areas in Hyalite.
BETA PHOTO: Rough map of the more popular areas in Hyalite.
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning climb on G1
Morning climb on G1
Rock Climbing Photo: winter dance!
winter dance!
Rock Climbing Photo: Hyalite is more than just a climbing venue.
Hyalite is more than just a climbing venue.
Rock Climbing Photo: climbers on the dribbles
climbers on the dribbles
Rock Climbing Photo: so many hidden gems of ice!
so many hidden gems of ice!
Rock Climbing Photo: Hyalite Goods
BETA PHOTO: Hyalite Goods
Rock Climbing Photo: The uber-classic G1 at night. Center flow. Climber...
The uber-classic G1 at night. Center flow. Climber...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Scepter
The Scepter
Rock Climbing Photo: Some friends kept a Catalina 22 anchored on Hyalit...
Some friends kept a Catalina 22 anchored on Hyalit...

Comments on Hyalite Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By ozman
From: CO / NM
Apr 3, 2012
If you only have a few days to climb, make sure you go to the unamed wall. Its by far the best way to get a lot of climbing in. The rest of the climbs are spread out all over the place. On second thought, go to Cody.
By danesherstad
Jan 5, 2014
I'm in Bozeman for a couple days (jan 5 to 8ish) and would love to get out in Hyalite. Anyone around and want to climb? Thanks!
By YoseMtnMan
Jan 17, 2014
I'm going to be in the area until 1/26/14. If anyone needs an ice climbing partner, let me know. I'm bringing my gear with me.
By Morrismc
From: Portland, Or
Nov 17, 2014
Question: when the road is plowed is it possible to get a two-wheel drive car up to the Reservoir? Or is 4WD/AWD required?

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