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Hyalite Canyon

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Dribbles Area 
Fins, The 
Genesis Area 
Mummy Area 
Practice Rock 
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Twin Falls Area 
Unnamed Wall, The 
Winter Dance Area 
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Hyalite Canyon  


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Location: 45.48986, -110.97951 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe Josephson on Oct 31, 2008
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Hyalite Reservoir November 2010

Potential road closures in winter. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

With over 150 ice routes in less than 3 square miles, Hyalite Canyon represents the most concentrated, natural ice climbing venue in North America.

Home to all-time classics like "Cleopatra's Needle," "Black Magic," "Mummy Cooler," "Winter Dance," one of the top ten routes in the world (yes I said world), Hyalite is unique in every sense of that word.

The South Fork (Cody) might have more vertical but it's spread out and inconsistent with scrappy approaches. Keystone Canyon and Lake Willoughby certainly vie for the densest cliffs on the continent except for perhaps a few fjords in Newfoundland and Quebec once every 10 years. Ouray has way more concentrated ice than anywhere but most of it is in the ice park; the climbing equivalent of farm raised salmon (and about as overcrowded). Of course the Canadian Rockies, both the Mecca and Medina of the frozen world, has over 10 times the number of routes and all of them longer but over an area roughly the size of Maryland. North Conway has killer ice; when it's not raining. I've been to them all so cut it anyway you like, declare yourself a hero because you prefer long alpine or mixed climbs, stir in whatever hyperbole you favor and pass the single malt; Hyalite is the most concentrated, easily accessible and consistent ice climbing venue in North America. And I'm not the only widely-traveled climber to say it's our favorite too.

Getting There 

South of Bozeman, MT about 45 minutes from Downtown, depending on road conditions. Routes range from 10 minutes to 2 hours from the car.
"Winter Dance" is the definitive guidebook in full color.
firstascentpress.com/winter-da...

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.8 miles from here

56 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',3],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hyalite Canyon:
Mummy II   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 140'   Mummy Area
The Thrill is Gone   M4     Mixed, 1 pitch, 205'   The Unnamed Wall
Twin Falls Left + Right   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Twin Falls Area
Hang Over   WI3     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 50'   Genesis Area
Lower Green Sleeves   WI3-     TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   Genesis Area
The Matrix   WI4- M4-5     Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 130'   Mummy Area
Genesis II   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 115'   Genesis Area
Genesis I   WI3+     TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   Genesis Area
Winter Dance   WI5-6 M8     Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches, 450'   Winter Dance Area
The Dribbles   WI4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450'   Dribbles Area
The Scepter   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Mummy Area
The Elevator Shaft   WI4-     Ice, 1 pitch, 115'   The Unnamed Wall
Cleopatra's Needle   WI5     Ice, 3 pitches, 250'   Twin Falls Area
5.6 Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Practice Rock
Strawberry Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Practice Rock
The Fiver   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 70'   Practice Rock
Blind Black Babies   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Practice Rock
Wizards Well   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Practice Rock
Theoretically   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Practice Rock
Tough Trip Through Paradise   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Practice Rock
Browse More Classics in Hyalite Canyon

Featured Route For Hyalite Canyon
The Dribbles

The Dribbles WI4  MT : Hyalite Canyon : Dribbles Area
This route is one of the best in the Hyalite Canyon, and a must do for any visitor capable to lead wi3+. Due to it's popularity it attracts crowds, so leaving early is a good idea if you want to be the first in line.First pitch: (wi3+ish)is two short tiers of ice divided by about 25 feet of hiking on ice or snow. At times ice could be hollow with water running under.Second Pitch: wi3- and climbs to the base of the 3rd (crux pitch).Third pitch: the crux with wi4 rating. There is an easier ramp av...[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

Photos of Hyalite Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Sunny Hyalite Goods
Sunny Hyalite Goods
School Project
School Project
Responsible Family Men in splitter conditions
Responsible Family Men in splitter conditions
The Scepter
The Scepter
climbers on the dribbles
climbers on the dribbles
winter dance! <br />
winter dance!
Hyalite Goods
BETA PHOTO: Hyalite Goods
Morning climb on G1
Morning climb on G1
so many hidden gems of ice!
so many hidden gems of ice!

Comments on Hyalite Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By ozman
From: CO / NM
Apr 3, 2012
If you only have a few days to climb, make sure you go to the unamed wall. Its by far the best way to get a lot of climbing in. The rest of the climbs are spread out all over the place. On second thought, go to Cody.
By danesherstad
Jan 5, 2014
I'm in Bozeman for a couple days (jan 5 to 8ish) and would love to get out in Hyalite. Anyone around and want to climb? Thanks!
By YoseMtnMan
Jan 17, 2014
I'm going to be in the area until 1/26/14. If anyone needs an ice climbing partner, let me know. I'm bringing my gear with me.