Mountain Project: Climbing Central Coast

The 2-lane California Highway 33 branches off from the 101 freeway in Ventura and winds itself north, skirting the quaint town of Ojai. If you are driving north from Ventura, the crags are in the following sequence:

Getting There

From the beachside town of Ventura, head north towards Ojai on 33. Refer to crag descriptions for additional directions.

Here's a map to get your bearings.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hwy 33/Ojai:

Rapunzel V1 R Boulder, 25 feet Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge

Losing My Marbles V2 Boulder, 8 feet Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge

Quiet Soul V2 R Boulder, 15 feet Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge

Happy Hunting Grounds (a.k.a. Heaven on Top) V3 Boulder, 25 feet Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds

Painted Carnaval V3 Boulder, 15 feet Pine Mountain : Picnic Area Boulders

No Picnic V4 Boulder Pine Mountain : Picnic Area Boulders

To Die For V4 R Boulder, 20 feet Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge

Sock Hop V5-6 Boulder, 20 feet Pine Mountain : Lower Ridge

Dissing Euros V6 Boulder, 15 feet Pine Mountain : Happy Hunting Grounds

Welcome to the Darkside V11 R Boulder, 30 feet Pine Mountain : Enlightenment Ridge

Tree Root 5.5 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Pipe Cleaner 5.6 Trad, 160 feet Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Ending Crack 5.7 PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)

Permanent Income Hypothesis 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 180 feet The Fortress : Right Side Gully

South of the Trout Farm 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Wheeler Gorge

Chouinard-Bossier 5.9 R Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet, Grade II Matilija Wall

Economique 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Wheeler Gorge

Goulara 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Wheeler Gorge

Danger Boy 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Wheeler Gorge

Silent Mind 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Wheeler Gorge

Featured Route For Hwy 33/Ojai

Here I am making the first move on Sock Hop. It continues pretty much straight up from here using a shallow dish or two out right and small crimps up and left.

Sock Hop V5-6 CA : Central Coast : ... : Lower Ridge

Looking at the start of this problem will make it scream for you to give it a try, and the lack of apparent holds on the upper half make it that much more interesting. Starting with good sidepulls for your hands and obvious feet, move up to the sloping ledge, and continue to the top using small crimps and shallow dishes. Great movement on solid rock make this one of the best problems around....[more] Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Hwy 33/Ojai

Add Comment

Show which comments —

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 17, 2008

Cool geological information about the Sespe Gorge area

By t-rev
Feb 7, 2009

Has anyone here climbed Chouinard-Bossier on Matilija wall? Or does anyone know about the access situation? There's not much info out there for this route.

By C Runyan
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 14, 2009

t-rev: Full topos, photos, and other details about Matilija, Cathedral Peak, and a number of other gems missing from the Falcon Guide can be found in the out-of-print 1994 guide "Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 10, 2010

I spent a fair amount of time trying to get good access for Matilija. Got a guy who has "closed" the road to give me access but not to open the road to the public. We could get it open but no one seemed intereseted about fighting for it and the rangers were indifferent. This was for the West Camino Cielo access. You can still get there via a horrible scrample up from the res but it's ridiculous unless you want it badly, which is why I said in my guide that it's probably more time efficient to drive to the Sierra. If someone was was amped about the place and wanted to do some work I think decent access could be gained.

By Davi Rivas
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 12, 2010

I jus posted some pics of Matilija Wall, any takers?

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 6, 2012

For automobile aficionados:
Where does Car & Driver Magazine go to test drive a 500-hp super car?..

Highway-33, of course. Look for Wheeler Gorge in this video

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 3, 2013

A workaday road that cuts through California's back story

Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
	ADVANCED

Hwy 33/Ojai

Description

Getting There

The Classics