|Dear John Buttress
The easiest way to indentify this route is to look for an arete that abrubtly ends in a 6' deep ledge 30 feet off the ground, that has bolts just to the left of it.
The top anchors sit a ways back and right from this route, so top roping is probably not a good idea.
Climb up the arete starting on the right side, and moving over to the left face after the first tough move, which is before the first bolt and definately the crux. This is a very wingspan dependant move that will pull you up to a decent ledge where the rest of the ledge looks great, but isn't.
Once clipped into the first bolt the climbing gets simpler, but not easy until after the second bolt.
Once on the ramp, the top anchor is found to the right in the small cave, and requires a 5.6 travese move to reach from the ledge.
3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, which is shared with the middle bolts of God of Thunder (5.11b/c). Stick clip the first bolt and you can remove the "S" rating.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Jun 6, 2007
No need for an "R" rating. It's a sport route.
From: San Francisco
Jun 28, 2009
I started on the face near the start of Rehab and traversed the dikes to the right over to the first bolt of Hushed Passage. Safer this way, but not .10c and most likely not the actual start of this route. I finished up on the second half of rehab so fortunately the route was still challenging.
Next time I'll have to try out the correct opening moves of Hushed Passage.