Hush, Mama Thrush 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Jamieson, Hassol, 1990 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Dec 28, 2007 |
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Description On the right side of the middle section of the cliff, is this diamond-in-the-rough. Locate the ramp-like feature roughly 20 feet off the ground with a blocky--usually wet--start. Gain the ramp and make some tedious, and slippery moves up to the small roof. Place some gear, move up over the small overhang using some finger holds to a stance that forces you move up through additional finger moves with slippery feet. This yields a surprisingly fun finger crack that takes you to the top.
Location On the right side of the middle section of the cliff.
Protection A nice variety of gear with some doubles in the small-ish size. Also, a good assortment of nuts is helpful. A 60 meter rope will allow you to lead the route and belay from the top; however, you CANNOT toprope it with a 60m.
| Comments on Hush, Mama Thrush |
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By Dan Smith Aug 14, 2008
| This is a really great route. The gear is real solid, but watch for a wet start. An alternate start is to start on the bolted route to the left and after 4 bolts traverse right into HMT (about 5.10a). |
By Derek Doucet Apr 18, 2011 rating: 5.8 PG13
| Best route at Lower West? Probably so. |
By Swedeahauer May 12, 2011
| This is a great climb. I got a cam stuck at the very bottom of this route today. I'd like it back, so if you can manage to get it out please contact me. Thanks! |
By twellman Jul 1, 2011
| I believe there is a name for when you get a cam stuck and someone else gets it out: BOOTY! Just sayin... |
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Mar 18, 2012
| Thanks, Andrea. The change has been made! |
By Seth Maciejowski Apr 22, 2012 rating: 5.8
| Great pitch! I never tire of it. Good interesting moves throughout. I agree with Derek. Best pitch at lwb. |
By Derek Doucet Apr 22, 2012 rating: 5.8 PG13
| LOL. Just read Chris's description in more detail. I feel the "tedious, slippery moves" up the ramp are some of the coolest on the route. Different strokes, I guess! Thanks for the heads up about the pin (which I placed in about 1997, I think), Andrea. Without it, the crux overlap will be a fairly exciting lead at the grade. It's for the best that it's gone, though. The lower edge of the crack it was in has loosened considerably over the years, and has started to sound quite hollow. It was almost certainly rusty junk after 15 years in the Vermont elements anyway. |
By Eric G. From: Albany NY Apr 24, 2012
| Varied, exciting, long, and just fun. Don't miss the sneaky nut placement up higher on the right when you start ascending the ramp. |
By Matthew Abbott 20 hours ago
| Favorite 5.8 in Vermont thus far. Amazing. |
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