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 ADVANCED
Lower West Bolton
Routes Sorted
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A Minor T 
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Harvest Moon T,TR 
Hush, Mama Thrush T 
In the Pines T 
Slip, The T 
Steel Feathers T,S 
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What's up, doc? T 
Unsorted Routes:

Hush, Mama Thrush 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jamieson, Hassol, 1990
Page Views: 2,586
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Dec 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Description 

On the right side of the middle section of the cliff, is this diamond-in-the-rough.

Locate the ramp-like feature roughly 20 feet off the ground with a blocky--usually wet--start. Gain the ramp and make some tedious, and slippery moves up to the small roof. Place some gear, move up over the small overhang using some finger holds to a stance that forces you move up through additional finger moves with slippery feet. This yields a surprisingly fun finger crack that takes you to the top.

Location 

On the right side of the middle section of the cliff.

Protection 

A nice variety of gear with some doubles in the small-ish size. Also, a good assortment of nuts is helpful. A 60 meter rope will allow you to lead the route and belay from the top; however, you CANNOT toprope it with a 60m.


Comments on Hush, Mama Thrush Add Comment
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By Dan Smith
Aug 14, 2008

This is a really great route. The gear is real solid, but watch for a wet start. An alternate start is to start on the bolted route to the left and after 4 bolts traverse right into HMT (about 5.10a).
By Derek Doucet
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Best route at Lower West? Probably so.
By Swedeahauer
May 12, 2011

This is a great climb.

I got a cam stuck at the very bottom of this route today. I'd like it back, so if you can manage to get it out please contact me. Thanks!
By twellman
Jul 1, 2011

I believe there is a name for when you get a cam stuck and someone else gets it out: BOOTY!

Just sayin...
By Andrea Charest
Mar 12, 2012

  • *the pin is no longer on the route!
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 18, 2012

Thanks, Andrea. The change has been made!
By Seth Maciejowski
Apr 22, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great pitch! I never tire of it. Good interesting moves throughout. I agree with Derek. Best pitch at lwb.
By Derek Doucet
Apr 22, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

LOL. Just read Chris's description in more detail. I feel the "tedious, slippery moves" up the ramp are some of the coolest on the route. Different strokes, I guess!

Thanks for the heads up about the pin (which I placed in about 1997, I think), Andrea. Without it, the crux overlap will be a fairly exciting lead at the grade. It's for the best that it's gone, though. The lower edge of the crack it was in has loosened considerably over the years, and has started to sound quite hollow. It was almost certainly rusty junk after 15 years in the Vermont elements anyway.
By Eric G.
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Apr 24, 2012

Varied, exciting, long, and just fun. Don't miss the sneaky nut placement up higher on the right when you start ascending the ramp.
By Matthew Abbott
May 24, 2013

Favorite 5.8 in Vermont thus far. Amazing.