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Sundance Buttress
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Hurley-Neri T 
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Mr. President T 
Nose, The T 
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Whiteman T 

Hurley-Neri 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 630'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: George Hurley and Mike Neri. FFA- M. Caldwell and Scarpella
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: paco on Aug 1, 2002

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  • Description 

    Hurley-Neri is only two pitches. Pitch one is steep 5.9 fists and such. Pitch two is steeper with a nice lengthy section of fists(crux). After that you can finish on Progression or Grapevine to the top.

    This was an A1 aid line until Mike Caldwell and Mick Scarpella freed it in 1988.

    While it's hard to give this climb a star because of general loosness and lichenisotis, some obscure Lumpy climbers and any fist crack junkies will enjoy this route.

    P1. Climb the first 40ft of Progression then step right to a steep fist/hand crack and belay at a stance above. Some minor looseness involved.

    P2. Take on the hand/fist(and wider) crack and continue for 100ft joining Progression again and belaying on a nice ledge in the middle of Grapevine's 3rd pitch. This steep and "interesting" pitch face climbs to the left for a short while to avoid a loose wide section and also includes a key fist jam against a brittle flake (crux).

    If you hurry, you can still get the 4th ascent.

    Protection 

    Bring a standard Lumpy rack to a #4 Camalot and at least two #3 Camalots. A #3.5 might also be nice.


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