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Hungover Hangover 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ron Kauk (?)
Page Views: 1,737
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jul 5, 2009

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  • Description 

    Hungover Hangover is a 50 foot pitch halfway up the left side of Black Wall. From the belay bolts atop Rat's Tooth or Touch and Go, look up and spy this impressive looking handcrack!

    This crack overhangs a tad, and runs between tight hands, hands and big hands, moving into a pod before swinging out over the slight lip and into slabbier territory.

    The granite is highly features, with large cubic feldspar crystals on the face... and inside the crack! I highly recommend taping for this one, it is sharp in there and I got chewed up.

    Finishes up above the overhang on some belay bolts. From here you can rap, climb Empty Sky (out left) continue up the big corner (not in guide, 5.7ish) or step right onto the face for a route out there.

    Location 

    Halfway up the left side of the Black Wall. Access by climbing Rat's Tooth or Touch and Go.

    Protection 

    Doubles of cams in the tight to big hand sizes. A couple finger sized pieces for the beginning of the crack.


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    By Patrick Mulligan
    Aug 22, 2012
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    I climbed this again (first time in 6+ years) last night and have to say that this thing is a kick in the pants. While very different than Sanitation crack, it packs the same kind of punch in the 40" of overhanging thin hands.
    By mac345
    From: Reno, Nv
    Jun 5, 2013

    climbed this in may and had to take because the pain was unbearable and my hand went numb, also helmeted head got stuck in the pod whilst trying to move out. But the hand jams and feet are pretty secure, and takes great gear.just use tape it will make the send must less painful. all in all an awesome route
    By Willoughby
    Sep 3, 2013

    I'll second the pain/tape comments. Ouch. I'm in no hurry to repeat this one.
    By kolamjr
    From: Tahoma, California
    Jan 15, 2015

    I am pretty sure Ron Kauk did FA of this awesome climb.
    By BruceB
    From: Reno, NV
    May 1, 2015
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Short and stout. And with tape, fun too.
    The exit from the pod is a little awkward but the whole pitch takes great pro.

    Did pitch 2 by going up the big corner and then cracks on the right face. Kinda dirty and vegetated in places. Nothing special but not terrible either. I don't think it sees much traffic. Next time I'll probably rap the 10a pitch then continue over to Touch and Go or Bourbon Street for a more satisfying finish.
    By Christopher Rein
    Jan 8, 2016
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Does this really go at 10a?

    I haven't fallen on 10a in a couple years. I hung twice and made it look really ugly getting up the overhanging section. I thought that this was significantly harder than new moon (10d) and bourbon street (10b).

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