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Reynolds Hill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Man with a Devil's Hand 
Barf Bucket Traverse 
Black Starr Chimney 
Bloodletting 
Climb and Punishment 
Climbs of Passion Exit 
Coffee Grinder 
Connecticut Yankee 
Cosmic Debris 
Fat Man's Demise 
Finger Grinder 
Fist Crack, The 
Glenda's Chimney 
Hug Jombo 
Hung Like a Horse 
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia 
K.P. 
Klink 
Labyrinth 
Maiden 
Matron 
Moor's Crossing 
Peach Cobbler 
Penis Dimension 
Pooh Corner 
Robert's Rectification 
Serpentine 
Sky Line 
Spatial Relations 
Time Quake 
Tombstone Crack 
Unknown left of Maiden 
Unsorted Routes:

Hung Like a Horse 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: [Ron Matous and Gary Issacs, 1975]
Page Views: 6,896
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Starting into the crux.

Description 

This is a stunning crack to the right of Penis Dimension.

Start in the left-facing dihedral with a horizontal crack 30 feet up. Small hand jams and good pro to the horizontal ledge which provides a no-hands rest that will quickly tire the feet. From there, perfect hand jams lead to the intimidating roof with a perfect #4 Camalot placement. Pull through this one move offwidth section to the slab above. Delicate slabbing will bring you to the anchors of Penis Dimension which are not visible until the slab is surmounted.

This is the best route I've done at Vedauvoo, with unbeatable protection.


Protection 

Sparse nuts, sparse small cams to #1 Camalot, 2 #1 Camalots, as many #2 Camalots as you can scrounge, 1 #4 Camalot.



Photos of Hung Like a Horse Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb leads 'Hung Like A Horse (5.11a)' At Reynolds Hill in Vedauvoo. Photo by Joseffa Meir ~Y2K.
Tony Bubb leads 'Hung Like A Horse (5.11a)' At Rey...
Pulling through the wide section of Hung Like a Horse.
Pulling through the wide section of Hung Like a Ho...
artistic shot of Jordan finishing up the day on Hung Like a Horse
artistic shot of Jordan finishing up the day on Hu...
Unknown climber entering the fun crux roof on Hung.
Unknown climber entering the fun crux roof on Hung...
Tony Bubb a little further up on 'Hung Like a Horse (11a)' at Reynolds Hill, in Vedauvoo. Photo by Joseffa Meir, ~Y2K.
Tony Bubb a little further up on 'Hung Like a Hors...
Unknown climber on Hung Like a Horse
Unknown climber on Hung Like a Horse
Comments on Hung Like a Horse Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 25, 2006
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The Crux of this was easier than Penis Dimension, in my opinion. The climbing is simply more sustained, but I didn't find a move on it that was 5.11. YMMV, I have very long arms, small hands and a short thin body, mind you. Unfortunately, I took much more BIG gear than necessary and not enough smaller gear. What I found I was missing was some TCUs.

By Mark Morehouse
Aug 8, 2002

I also thought the crux of Penis Dimension was harder, but Hung Like a Horse is much more sustained. The jams are all sinker until the offwidth section. This is definitely a beautiful line and really fun climbing. Have Fun!!!

By Joe Collins
Aug 26, 2002

The hand jams are actually pretty sinker in the back of the pod, but you have to reach way back there... this coupled with the fact that one foot is jammed in the overhung crack and the other is smeared on the face makes for pretty strenuous climbing. The climbing felt similar to Hesitation Blues, but steeper and harder. I should also add that the anchor is way left, shared by Penis Dimension and Climb and Punishment... this makes it nearly impossible to retrieve your gear after leading it, so the climb has to be seconded.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 25, 2002

I feel the rating to be accurate, Penis Dimension is only harder if you don't do it right. Stay in the pod. You'll get no hints from me as to that crux.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 25, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Hey mister Anon at Internet address 129.72.62.45...

I'm not sure how the logic on that last comment flows. I think Penis D. is a 5.10c. I think Hung Like a Horse is similar in grade, or even easier move-by-move (10b), but sustained. I am pretty sure I did Penis D. just fine. Maybe I just did H.L.A.H. super good? It just seemed easier than graded. So why does that mean that somehow we're all doing a climb we agree with the grade of incorrectly? By your own logic, maybe you just are not doing H.L.A.H. right?

By Fletch F. Fletcher
Apr 4, 2004

Hey... it doesn't share the anchors with "P.P. Dimensions" it has its own bolts to the right of the crack around 8' above the roof... look carefully before you start the route.

C. C.

By TBD
Aug 3, 2004

You are strong indeed if you think 11- is inflated for this climb. While a fairly different climb and in a different area, in my opinion it is significantly more difficult than the 2nd pitch of Country Club Crack, as well as the 2nd pitch of Athlete's feet.

The climb is fabulous and demanding.

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Apr 20, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This route is 5.11 in my book.

By nolteboy
Jun 3, 2005

IMO, this is the highest quality of the 3 cracks in this alcove (the others of course being C & P and PD). At the crux I too stayed in the good hands way back in there...

By Wade Griffith
Feb 16, 2006

Hey Fletcher,
Those bolts out right above the roof appeared a few years ago. I think someone was trying to figure out a face route out there or something, got me what they were thinkin'. I don't remember there being any slings or chain to rap off those bolts, maybe there is now. The traditional anchor would be to climb on up and around the left to Climb and Punishment, easy climbing with just a little rope drag.

By Steve Matous
May 25, 2006

FA done in 1975 by Ron Matous and Gary Issacs.