Humpbacks in Love 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Ron Yahne & Bob Archbald |
| Submitted By: | Paul Huebner on Jul 9, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Bob's Bolts and Anchors
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Description The first pitch is solid 5.10. It's crux is getting to the 3rd and 4th bolt on some tiny and very sharp little projections in the black water groove above the small rib of rock. You will have very sore fingers, but it's well worth it. The pitch eases off above the 4th bolt and it's a romp up to the anchor/chain system from there. The second pitch is 5.10d and involves some unusual moves (crux) once you gain the ledge below the large vertical crack/chimney.
Location The route is located between the Original Waves and Shark's Breath. It's easy to see the first 3-4 bolts placed just above a small rib in a black water groove that goes up and to the left when you're facing the rock. You can rap from the fixed bolt/chain anchor system at the top of the 1st pitch (5.10) or continue on to the summit for Waves and rap from there.
Protection There are at least 6 - 7 bolts on the 1st pitch which ends at a bolt/chain anchor system. A few more bolts are found on the 2nd pitch that leads up and through a large vertical crack/small chimney -- bolts are placed on the smooth rock to the right of the chimney. The 2nd pitch ends at the summit for Waves.
| Comments on Humpbacks in Love |
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By John Klooster From: Arvada, CO Jul 14, 2007
| I think Bob called this route Humpbacks in Love. |
By Brent Kertzman From: Black Hills, SD Mar 17, 2008 rating: 5.10d
| This route is in fact named "Humpbacks in Love" aka "The Breakup Hickey". It may be wise to take a couple of cams up to 1" and a set of stoppers as there are some clean gear placements on the second pitch. The F.A. party rated the entire route 5.10d with the first pitch being 5.10a & the second pitch 5.10d. Ron Yahne & Bob Archbald did the F.A. |
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