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Turkey Tail
Routes Sorted
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Acoplopse T 
Brush Turkey S 
Captain Hook S 
Chop, The T 
Consternation T,TR 
Double Trouble T 
Drumstick Direct T 
East Side Story T 
Easy Offwidth T 
Eclipse T 
For Turkeys Only T 
Gobble This T 
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 
I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 
In Search of Unicorns T 
Inner Reaches T 
Jello Party T 
Johnny Lat S 
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 
Left Side of the Key T 
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Make the Cut T 
Piece of Cake T 
Quiver and Quill T 
Rasmussen Crack T 
Roofus T 
Sidewinder T 
Spider Lady T 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Termination T 
Turkey in the Straw T 
Turkey Turd T 
Turkey's Delight T 
Whimsical Dreams T 
Wild Turkey T 
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 

Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Doug Snively (1970s)
Page Views: 4,916
Submitted By: Darin Lang on May 14, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Phil starting the easy traverse.

Description 

This is a quality route located on the left side of Turkey Tail, in the same alcove as Turkey's Delight, but on the opposite side.

P1 ascends a fairly sustained hand and fist crack to the top of the dihedral, followed by an interesting and airy traverse right to a large belay ledge (8).

P2 pulls over the roof on initial jugs and then an awkward move or two (8); go up a low fifth-class ramp to the obvious flaring offwidth (9). A #4 Camalot provides reasonably protection - a #5 would be quite solid. The P2 offwidth felt like a Vedauwoo 9 to me.

I give it 3 stars for the splendid South Platte granite, two quality pitches, and great position.

Protection 

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot size - optional extra #2 and a #5 Camalot.


Photos of Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Just above the pitch 2 roof.
Just above the pitch 2 roof.
Ben Hobgood leading the start of pitch 2.
Ben Hobgood leading the start of pitch 2.
Jon Cannon on the fantastic airy traverse at the end of the first pitch.  Photo taken by Justin Robarge.
Jon Cannon on the fantastic airy traverse at the e...
Pulling pro just under the roof at the start of the second pitch.
Pulling pro just under the roof at the start of th...
Phil following P1. Can you say offwidth?
Phil following P1. Can you say offwidth?
Leading pitch 1.
Leading pitch 1.
Me rap'g down after the 2nd pitch w Pike's Peak in the BG.
Me rap'g down after the 2nd pitch w Pike's Peak in...

Comments on Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stewart M. Green
May 20, 2003

First ascent by Doug Snively in the early 1970s.
By pete cogan
Sep 26, 2004

You can also rap this route on a 60m rope. On the first pitch there's a wire cable around a huge rock. On the second pitch there are two bolts -- and now two equalized pieces of webbing and rap rings.

Difficult climb for the grade.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Mar 30, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I don't think I would bother dragging a #5 Camalot up this. I felt pretty good having a #3, 3.5, and 4. There were a few points where I walked the #4, but I'm not exactly comfortable in wide cracks. I combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches and I was very happy to have both my #3.5 and 4 still with me for the traditional 3rd pitch. For that part, I slammed in the #4 and stemmed the whole corner, which was a blast. Be careful if rapping with a 60m cord, I would guess that it would be close (we used a 70m and didn't have much left).
P1 - 5.8+, P2 - 5.8, P3 - 5.9
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 9, 2008

Aka - Snively's Crack.
By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 16, 2009

I'm surprised people are calling the #5 cams optional... this sucker is wide!
By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree with Eric, I think I may have even used a #6.
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2009

This route has great rock, is a beautiful line, and is definitely wide.

As usual, I forgot that having small hands makes wide cracks feel hard: I found few hand jams on this route, and not so many fists either. If your hands are gigantic, this is the route for you. If you have small hands and are generally terrified of wide cracks (like me) you'll be happy with some big gear. We placed the two biggest curve hexes and the #3, #3.5, #4, #5, and #6 Camalots on both pitches.

Getting down with a 60m rope works fine - there are 2 raps.
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2009

We were very happy having up to a #6 Camalot.

How is this a "hand and fist crack"? Did your hands get stung by bees and swell up before you got on this climb? The crack leading up to the traverse is mainly fists to offwidth, with a few hand jams to be found.
By Jerimiah Gentry
From: Denver, CO
Feb 23, 2012

Wonderful route, but I agree that by no stretch of the imagination is it a hand and fist crack. There are jams here and there, but it is mostly a wide crack kept tame by stemming, face holds, and features within the crack. I was happy to place two #4 Camalots. From the ground, it's difficult to tell, but after 40 feet or so a small crack begins to open up on the right wall accepting small gear. Great route and thanks for the description and photos.