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North Cheyenne Canyon
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Hully Gully 
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Hully Gully 

WI3+

   
Type:  Ice, 2 pitches
Consensus: WI4 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 6,493
Submitted By: kevin fox on Feb 28, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Full Monty - Hully Gully.

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Description 

A good 2 pitch ice climb in the Colorado Springs area. First pitch, I believe is 40 or so feet. Second pitch is close to 110 feet. Top rope off the tree on the right of the 2nd pitch. We used a 70 meter rope and had a few feet to spare. The trail can be found by looking for boot and crampon marks heading downhill. A great place to take beginners to get a feel for steep ice. Better than the hacked out Silver Cascade Slab.

Location 

Off of Old Stage in Colorado Springs.

Protection 

Takes screws used a second 60m rope to rappel in on.

NOTE 

This was on private property.

Three years ago, Rick Gieman, in one of his last efforts before retiring from Colorado Springs Park & Rec Dept., was able to secure an easment for CS Park and Rec. from the Hills, who own Seven Falls, allowing ice climber access to Hully Gully from the Old Stage Road. This easement does not include Ramona Falls, which is still off-limits.


Photos of Hully Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Mixed variation at top of second pitch. Follows pins up and left, then run out to the small tree. Avoid loose blocks up and right. All pins placed on lead. M5 or M6? Fun moves and a good way to get a quick mix fix.
BETA PHOTO: Mixed variation at top of second pitch. Follows pi...
Looking down Hully.
Looking down Hully.
2nd / 3rd pitch Hully Gully.
BETA PHOTO: 2nd / 3rd pitch Hully Gully.
Marie Brophy following the upper flow, 1/24/14.
Marie Brophy following the upper flow, 1/24/14.
Approach beta - Hully Gully.
BETA PHOTO: Approach beta - Hully Gully.
1st / lower pitch of Hully Gully.
BETA PHOTO: 1st / lower pitch of Hully Gully.
Laura getting started.
Laura getting started.
2nd pitch of ice. 100 feet to the tree on the right.
BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch of ice. 100 feet to the tree on the righ...
Hully Gully, P1 & 2.
BETA PHOTO: Hully Gully, P1 & 2.
A climber on Hully Gully from a nearby pinnacle.
A climber on Hully Gully from a nearby pinnacle.
Drew climbing the lower fall. <br />Night time.
Drew climbing the lower fall.
Night time.
Laura raping down. <br />
Laura raping down.
A less than in 2nd pitch of Hully Gully, 2013.
A less than in 2nd pitch of Hully Gully, 2013.
First pitch of Hully Gully, 2/10/2010.
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Hully Gully, 2/10/2010.
Dylan Gibson leading the lower flow, 1/24/14.
Dylan Gibson leading the lower flow, 1/24/14.
Laura at the top of the upper fall.
Laura at the top of the upper fall.
Second pitch.
Second pitch.

Comments on Hully Gully Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 15, 2012
By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 1, 2008
rating: WI4+

So, it looks like this route is going to be OK to post. Is there a consensus then about how to describe it, as in should real directions be shared that would be helpful to a user of this site or should they remain as they are?
By kevin fox
From: parker
Mar 1, 2008

I didn't post mileage for that specific reason, but it is not a secret as to where this climb lies. When I was down climbing Hully Gully on Tuesday, there was a cat who rapped in and rope soloed the left side as we were climbing on the right. The route is cool but not to make the trip on a weekly basis to the Springs. It would be One thing if there were multiple lines, but this is not the case. There are access issues at other climbing areas as well. It's funny how climbers can be. If this were on private property, why would the company, "summit guides", I believe, do a show on Comcast where the took some cat in there to climb? As soon as I watched it and know the ice that is and around Colorado Springs, I figured it was Hully Hully. I'm sure if I lived in the Springs and wanted to swing tools during the week, that is where I would go.
By Joshua Balke
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 3, 2008

As much as it disappoints me to see more traffic there I guess it was going to happen and of course it is public access as Pete said. I personally spent two days trudging through that area after hearing about it and after only getting a "it's along Old Stage Road" for approach notes. Let's keep with that. If people really want to climb the best ice in the area, they can at least put some effort into finding it. It's not that hard if you break out a topo and use some common sense. As an aside, there is high potential here for taking a big chunk of ice in the head when there is more than one party on the ice and with four parties (not uncommon), it becomes down right dangerous. If you show up to a crowd, don't risk others safety with too much pressure just come back later or wait on the side.
By Phil Berggren
Mar 26, 2008

Oooops. Heard about HG on SuperTopo and gave "Stich" what, in retrospect, after I thought about it, was a poor approach description. Basically referenced Old Stage Road. In total agreement with the published approach philosophy.
Thinking I should get up there Sunday, just for old times' sake and because it's so good for so close to home. Hope I can remember the way.
BTW, in keeping with the aforementioned approach philosophy, there is in Castlewood Canyon a more often than not formed up 60' pitch of WI4 or so that is not obvious to find but worth the search that, based on the tracks over the years, has rarely if ever been climbed by anyone other than my bros or myself. You can see a bit of it from one trail if you look in the right place. We always called it "The Turgid Penetrator."
Yeah, I know that is much ado about not much. But it is kind of off the beaten path when it comes to ice, and when you stumble around the corner and see it for the first time it's kind of like an adventure, only smaller.
Know what I mean?
By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
May 19, 2008

WTF!!!! Very sad to see this posted. Now that it is, there may need to be a little protocol to deal with increasing crowds. I firmly believe that both pitches should be lead only. It is too dangerous to be blindly throwing ropes off the top of either pitch. If you want to toprope, Silver Cascade is a safer option.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 1, 2008
rating: WI4

A fun pitch or so of WI 4 and a good lead for someone breaking into that grade. You can check conditions by hiking up the Mt Cutler trail which is a nice little hike. Just look over at Old Stage Rd and if HG is in you can't miss it.

I agree that it would be responsible to only lead here as there really is only room for one party at a time to safely climb this thing.

That being said, climbers will be climbers, so beware!
By kevin fox
From: parker
Jun 7, 2008

Phil,
I don't think that you have to much to worry about. The route is okay if you are in the area. By no means is it a destination climbing area like Vail, Ouray, Cody. I was in the neighborhood, and a friend in the springs wanted to swing some tools. The springers are safe from having there two ice climbing areas over run by hordes of people swinging picks into the little ice that is in and around C/S.
By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Jun 29, 2008

Kevin, I'm not sure where you got that I think CS is a "destination ice climbing area," but if you visited here, you probably noticed that we have nearly a million people living in El Paso County. Over crowding at Hully Gully has been an issue already before this was posted and will likely increase now, especially on weekends. This has been the site of at least one fatality, but with proper use (i.e. lead only) we may prevent more accidents.
By Chris Mack
Nov 19, 2008

I could not possibly agree more that this needs to be removed.

I ran into a situation like this, years ago, where I wanted to post directions to a really awesome bouldering area in another state I was living in at the time. I was not a local to the area and for the life of me I could not understand why the hell the place was kept so secret. 10 minutes after saying I was going to put the directions on the site, I got emails, phone calls and more pleading to me not to do so. At the time, I still could not understand what the big deal was, I mean, the place was public and lots of people knew about it.

You know when I finally understood? The day my buddy took me to the Hully Gully. It was at night, after work, and it was “thin but in”. After climbing this thing with headlamps, learning of its history and getting to appreciate some quality “town ice”, I finally understood and pledged never to give too much info away about this. I have since climbed this flow dozens of times and I have always appreciated that of all the times I have been in that gully, I have only ever seen one other party and I have never had to wait in line. Ever been to Silver Cascade on a Saturday? Good luck with that.

I never did post the directions, which probably saved me some past and future friendships (and an asswhoopin’), and I am glad I didn’t.

-Mack
By Pete Elliott
From: Co Spgs CO
Nov 23, 2008

I say show don't tell rules should apply. Too late I reckon but it would certainly keep traffic down.
By Grant
From: Colorado Springs
Nov 23, 2008

Couldn't agree more Pete. I spent three weeks looking for this thing the first time. For those of us who have business leading back country, this is a great place to kick around. As for setting up top, well it's sketch at best unless done correctly. Would hate to see another accident take place which is bound to happen with this post. The activities of the canyon are frightening enough.

BTW, have never seen a crowd while climbing in the dark.
By kevin fox
From: parker
Dec 3, 2008

You know I was born and raised in Colorado Springs and to give off the vibe that it shouldn't be told or talked about is kinda silly. And the accident that occurred there I believe was because the climber didn't have his crampons on when approaching from the top.... Ice climbing is inherently dangerous. I've taken head shots with the hammer numerous times from my tools as well as in my early years an adze to the forehead. Phil, you also speak of over crowding, get up early and beat the crowds if you want to be the first one there. Hell! if you don't want to see anybody while climbing head to Cody.... And in all honesty, I figured this place out when I was surfing comcast and some local outdoor show had Hully Gully on. It's amazing what you can learn from TV.
By Jeffrey Bauer
Dec 8, 2008

Easy directions to Hully, who cares what anyone else says. When coming here to climb, make sure you stay in I-25 the whole way through Colorado Springs, I mean all the way. Once you get to Pueblo turn right on CO-60 and head west to Durango, veer north and catch a grey hound in GJ to Boulder and stay there.

Some things are to be left up to Adventure! I grew up in the Springs and have been to Hully 5 or 6 times and each time it was a fun, crowd free experience. Let the goobers of the world get lost in the woods for a while, we would all be doing them a favor. Think about it, who wants to hear about the stock market, the economy, stupid politics, and war? Is helping someone get back to their world any faster really helping someone? I for one say give me no directions, let me get my couch fattened ass lost and help me, and others like me defeat the cubicle prison that we so loathe.
By Joshua Balke
From: Colorado Springs
Dec 13, 2008

Jeffery, nice approach description. If anyone actually wants to climb some other steeper ice by TR for some practice, there is a WI4ish 20 ft route off the Columbine Trail in Cheyenne Canyon that is easily visible from the road. Look north. It's usually in mid winter but is usually detached verglas at the top making for not much fun on lead.

Edited above because it sounds a bit arrogant after rereading. Just saying if your looking for a steeper short TR look for the above mentioned climb.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jan 3, 2009

As Joshua mentioned, it's fun to finally locate this line yourself after collecting various bits of information over the year like "it can be seen from this hiking trail." We just hiked down to it today and it was cool confirming we picked the right drainage. No one on the ice when we were there, while Silver Cascade was quite popular today.
By England
From: ?
Sep 13, 2009
rating: WI4

Post detailed directions or not. Local guiding services are using the area heavily, as well as the Colorado Springs Fire Department, who at one point last winter put a sign on the trailhead closing the entire climb for their training purposes. Needless to say this did not go over well with the locals. The last time I did this climb winter (Jan. 2009) before it fell apart, by the time I left around 8:00 a.m. there were already a dozen parties at the climb. The circus has begun. :-(
By bigwallrog
From: the farside
Oct 10, 2009

Yep, this place is as well known as Cowboy's downtown or the local titty bar so deal w/it....

I found this place the first year I moved here. It was crowded then, and it's crowded now. Even if you were coming here for the first time, it's not too hard to find as there is usually 4 or 5 climbers cars parked on the road any day of the week or as England has said a van or two from the local guide service or the Fire Dept.

The lead only thing is in the crapper as well as even the Fire Dept. top ropes the shit out of this place....

Over the last couple of years I can't remember not seeing steps chopped all the way up the right side of the main flow.
By Slade
From: Gunnison
Dec 14, 2009

I agree with what Howard Johnson said about what Howard Johnson said.
By Just Solo
From: Colorado Springs
Feb 23, 2010
rating: WI4

Interesting info here.... Technically, the climb is NOT on private property but the access is. It has been granted permission to access with limited parking on the road above. It's not really an issue. As mentioned, this route is really only "safe" as a one party game. It can be had by two parties that are VERY solid and keeping ice in contact with the flow. It would be a dodgeball game to try to have a party on the upper section and the lower at the same time. Pretty much any ice that comes off from the upper flow funnels down to the lower, much narrower pitch unless there is significant snowfall, in which case it's a bit of a crap shoot.

I've climbed this flow dozens of times for about 10yrs now, and while I admit it can get a bit crowded it's not really that big of a deal as long as everyone is in a cooperative mood. As a local, if the parking has a car, I just don't go. I've never seen the Fire Dept. close the route (unless there is a rescue) and really, they can't. They don't own it. I climb this thing once or twice a week and 90% of the time it's all mine.

Currently the flow is suffering from too warm temps and wet snow, it's basically a snow cone/slush puppy on most of it, but it is in very fat overall. If you do it, keep a low profile. Don't underestimate the approach (short but steep) and don't be stupid at the top, a fall is lights out... period.
By erik rieger
From: Gold Hill, CO
Mar 12, 2011

I agree with the lead only ethic. Having someone throw a rope over the top of you on lead without even giving a holler is not cool. If you want to TR, rock the first pitch, it has a bolted anchor. Otherwise, take your "ice park mentality" somewhere else.
By TBurke
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 15, 2012

Hully is BONE DRY!