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 ADVANCED
Left Field
Select Route:
Black Socks T 
Blood Root S 
Catcher's Mitt T 
First Base T 
Huffin Cedar T 
Knuckle Balls T 
Pinch Hitter T 
Second Base T 
Space Balls T,S 
Spring Training T 
Stealing Second T 
Who's on First T,S 
Wild Pitch T 

Huffin Cedar 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess
Page Views: 913
Submitted By: BruceBurgessNC on Jan 6, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch

Description 

First pitch (5.7) is a great bolt and gear face that climbs a short left facing corner at mid height and ends at a sweet belay ledge with two bolts. The 2nd pitch takes the left angling crack to bolt protected face that curls back right on jugs to a ledge with left arching corner above (00 tcu placement low on ledge). Move up the corner a bit then right past a bolt (crux) to the double bolt belay.

Location 

25 feet right of Black Socks at a Chestnut Oak

Protection 

Light rack of cams tiny to 2 inches and some stoppers.


Photos of Huffin Cedar Slideshow Add Photo
Mike with a text book road runner mantel at the to...
Mike with a text book road runner mantel at the to...
Huffin Cedar follows the flake system out left bef...
Huffin Cedar follows the flake system out left bef...

Comments on Huffin Cedar Add Comment
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By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Jan 19, 2015

I guess what is described here is different than what is pictured and shown in the new guide book. The guide book shows it going up the flake system maybe 6-8 feet left of blood route (12a). We did that flake system on TR and it didn't feel like 10a. It didn't have any bolts and the gear in the upper section would be questionable. We did find the 3 bolt line to the left of the 1p belay and directly above the left tree, this is probably the right line for Huffin Cedar and it had super fun moves and it was protectable.
By BruceBurgessNC
Jan 19, 2015

Correct. The route to the left of the flake is Huffin. That flake and face above is a really good toprope problem too! There are a few errors in the new guide book.
By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Jan 20, 2015

Thanks Bruce,

Okay that make lots of sense now. We decided to just go with the flow once we got out there to left field. It had a nice adventure feeling and didn't see another soul.

That top rope problem was really cool! That move getting of the flake system and getting established higher up was neat.

I couldn't quite figure out where that unknown crack list in the book was, maybe I was closer to the waterfall / streak?

Thanks for finding and putting these gems out there.
By Mike Reardon
Jan 20, 2015

Thanks for posting on it Mike and Bruce. I added your updates on the Ground Up website, hopefully that sums them up?
grounduppublishing.com/?p=851
By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Jan 21, 2015

Thanks Mike, and great work with the book. The hand drawn topos are awesome. and the descriptions gave me a good push to get out to the further areas and do some wandering.
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