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Begin in the left-slanting and low angle flared crack for the route North Overhang (5.9) A medium-sized cam may be placed at the top of the flared crack. Then veer left in an unprotected seam to the first of seven bolts. Continue up the steep face / slab making technical and powerful moves. Reaching the final bolt is extremely difficult (12+ ?). It is easier to angle left (5.11-) and skip the final bolt to the top (slightly runout) as shown on the topo in Bartlett's Guide to Rock Climbs of Hidden Valley.
Quickdraws for many bolts and an optional medium-sized cam. A new two-bolt anchor with chains is at the top.
Moving through the powerful and technical sequence...
Luke climbs the lower part of Huevos
Nearing the crux section on Huevos
Serching for the crimps that arnt fully there on H...
Luke nears the end of Huevos while Chris belays be...
|By Lee Clark|
Feb 23, 2006
TR'd this to check it out - it's all there but those last bolt moves are thin, thin, thin. Just about safe enough, if you can let go to clip! Felt worth the two stars. Nice route.
Nov 9, 2008
I redpointed this in '04 or '05 via a very protracted lead (1+ hours). Reaching the last bolt is all but impossible (but probably not quite impossible); instead, head left and runout about 25+ feet up the slippery rappel line at 5.10+/-. Supportive footwear a plus. The first ascent listed "random euros" (Bartlett guide) but that may just be an antiquated euphemism for "rap bolters". Great route and quite desperate to lead.