Huecos Rancheros 

These are incredible sport routes a must do for anyone in the area. The ratings on both are probably high. (Nameste is probably 11c/d and Huecos 11d)

While Namaste is probably not really 12a, it is a major sandbag to call Huecos 11d. The crux is a sequential series of crimps that comes after 13 clips. Solid 5.12.

Why would someone bolt a route and then threaten to chop them once they became popular? Seems like ya shouldn't have bolted 'em in the first place then, eh?

This is one of the most amazing lines I have ever seen or done.....But really, if this was anywhere on the east coast it would be 12a/b no more!! You can get 2 no hands rest through the whole thing...Anyway get on it the crux is the 2nd to last bolt, and is maybe a v2/3 boulder problem.

if you want beta here you go. climb up using big holds all overhanging. this is a high endurance route. be creative with your rests, use knee bars and cram yourself into some bigger huecos. go calm and collected because its a long exhilerating haul. once you hit the third to the last bolt you get to do a v4 boulder move while pumped and about 130 feet in space. left hand sidepull bring feet up and go to a bad 3 finger crease. step up the feet fighting a barn door then move to a high crimper (do not clip here) then gun for the next hold then clip. after that its more great climbing to the anchors. i fell 4-5 times here before i could get it. please replace the top biners with new quicklinks. i wish i had a picture at the top looking down it was quite a view. use 2 ropes to descend. cleaning is laborious.

Is this area bigger then documented here? Would zion be worth the haul for a sport climber?

desbien: Is this area bigger then documented here? Would zion be worth the haul for a sport climber?

No, the area includes three sport climbs and a few (I'm not sure exactly how many) bolted slab climbs. It is a super cool area so if you're in the area it may be worth it. Keep in mind that it is cold and snowy where these climbs are so usually they're not climbable until June or July. I hiked into this area in late March once to find 20 to 30 feet of snow. I was looking almost eye level at some of the anchors.

There is now a bolted route 5 feet to the right of Huecos Rancheros.

Anyone have any beta?

The new route right of Huecos was put up by St. George local hard man Chad Perkins. I don't know much else, but it looks hard. It is just as long as Huecos, but climbs through several sections of smaller holds. I haven't been on it myself.

I got on the new route about 2 weeks ago....I found it to be about 11+/12-....It is a little heady lead, as you doing solid climbing, well above bolts is super soft sandstone, and gound fall for the first 4 bolts is possible. Alot of the holds were still very fragil due to lack of traffic, but near the top the route almost splits. You can go way left into super sandy easy heucos, or go right through near imposibble crimps (5.13) I did both ways neither is quite fun.

Personally this line is no where near as good as the 3 main climbs, but is a nice diversion. The climb should finish 2 bolts from the anchor. As is you need 14ish draws and 2 ropes to get down.

After establishing namaste and hueco rancheros I had a well known landscape photographer come down on me like a ton of bricks. He had hiked the South Fork for decades, photographed the unique wall and was understandably worked that climbers would desecrate this temple of nature. So word sorta evolved into,"Keep it mum." Eventually the images made it into print in the climbing mags and the word was out. Still quality routes worth the side hike and perhaps the steepest sport climbs in Zion NP.

If you sit in the huecos long enough the canyon wrens will visit you.

I recently purchased 100 meters of Dynamic rope from Sterling and was wondering if anyone knew if it would be enough to lower off of these climbs. Then I could top rope and clean from the other end. Appreciate the info!

I think 100m would be plenty.

As I recall, when I belayed someone on Huecos several years ago, we lowered with a single 70m. I had to climb up to the first bolt (or maybe a little past it) once the rope came tight on me (the belayer), then downclimb.

What is the weather like for this climb in June, July, and August? How about September?

The new route is called Twins Paradox, a comment on the two possible ways to finish the route. The jury is still out on which way ages you more but I found both very fun. The left branch is lower quality sandy slopers and felt like 12-. The right branch is stellar and unique for the wall as it doesn't have any jugs. It goes at 5.13a but could be harder for shorter folk.

I feel the best part of the route is the last two bolts if you take the right branch. A ground fall would be very difficult as each clipping hold for the first 4 bolts is a huge jug. I felt a minimalist approach was the best for this crag, hence the spaced out bolts that are painted black to blend in to the beautiful black streak the route climbs.

One 80m rope gets you down perfectly, just like Huecos Rancheros and is all I ever take up there as Namaste requires at least a 70m rope as well. Thanks for the feedback, enjoy!!!

Regardless of the grade, these routes are unique and awesome!! Go get on them. FYI I just did Huecos with a 90m rope and only had about 10 feet of rope left when I reached the ground. It would be a rope stretcher with a 80m rope.