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South Fork
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"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 
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Expecting T 
Fred Beckey T 
Hall of Smears S 
High Noon S 
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 
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Hueco Traverse S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
I Stab Ourselves S 
Last Rites T 
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Sand Surfin' S 
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Shotgun T 
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Touch Me Fall T 
Twins Paradox S 
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Yahweh T 
Unsorted Routes:

Huecos Rancheros 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Conrad Anker
Page Views: 12,960
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Description 

There are currently four lines on the obvious, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste." From left to right these are:

1/2 Route, AKA Unknown: 5.10d and much shorter.

Huecos Rancheros: 5.12c and the longest, most amazing looking line.

Namaste: 5.12a and the steepest line.

Unknown Project: Only a few bolts on this one thus far.

Huecos Rancheros is an amazing line. Follow 11 bolts up very steep, ultra positive holds to a large hueco. Rest here and then reach up and clip; the crux is getting past bolts #12 and #13 where the huecos shrink dramatically in size, things get sequential, and the wall continues to overhang like crazy!

Two ropes to descend, a single 70m won't do it. The rap puts you an astonishing 50' away from the start of the climb.

Protection 

15 bolts to an anchor.

Location 

Huecos Rancheros is the bolted line second-from-the-left.


Photos of Huecos Rancheros Slideshow Add Photo
Just another sandy slab climb.
Just another sandy slab climb.
the upper part of namaste
the upper part of namaste
Angus
Angus
Angus
Angus
Angus
Angus
Angus
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Angus

Comments on Huecos Rancheros Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 29, 2014
By Kenneth Duncan
Oct 11, 2004

These are incredible sport routes a must do for anyone in the area. The ratings on both are probably high. (Nameste is probably 11c/d and Huecos 11d)
By Josh Janes
Nov 17, 2004

While Namaste is probably not really 12a, it is a major sandbag to call Huecos 11d. The crux is a sequential series of crimps that comes after 13 clips. Solid 5.12.
By tom selleck
Mar 15, 2007

Why would someone bolt a route and then threaten to chop them once they became popular? Seems like ya shouldn't have bolted 'em in the first place then, eh?
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
May 25, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This is one of the most amazing lines I have ever seen or done.....But really, if this was anywhere on the east coast it would be 12a/b no more!! You can get 2 no hands rest through the whole thing...Anyway get on it the crux is the 2nd to last bolt, and is maybe a v2/3 boulder problem.
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 19, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

if you want beta here you go. climb up using big holds all overhanging. this is a high endurance route. be creative with your rests, use knee bars and cram yourself into some bigger huecos. go calm and collected because its a long exhilerating haul. once you hit the third to the last bolt you get to do a v4 boulder move while pumped and about 130 feet in space. left hand sidepull bring feet up and go to a bad 3 finger crease. step up the feet fighting a barn door then move to a high crimper (do not clip here) then gun for the next hold then clip. after that its more great climbing to the anchors. i fell 4-5 times here before i could get it. please replace the top biners with new quicklinks. i wish i had a picture at the top looking down it was quite a view. use 2 ropes to descend. cleaning is laborious.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Dec 9, 2007

Is this area bigger then documented here? Would zion be worth the haul for a sport climber?
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Dec 10, 2007

desbien: Is this area bigger then documented here? Would zion be worth the haul for a sport climber?

No, the area includes three sport climbs and a few (I'm not sure exactly how many) bolted slab climbs. It is a super cool area so if you're in the area it may be worth it. Keep in mind that it is cold and snowy where these climbs are so usually they're not climbable until June or July. I hiked into this area in late March once to find 20 to 30 feet of snow. I was looking almost eye level at some of the anchors.
By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Dec 8, 2008

There is now a bolted route 5 feet to the right of Huecos Rancheros.

Anyone have any beta?
By JoeAllen
Jun 26, 2009

The new route right of Huecos was put up by St. George local hard man Chad Perkins. I don't know much else, but it looks hard. It is just as long as Huecos, but climbs through several sections of smaller holds. I haven't been on it myself.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jun 27, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I got on the new route about 2 weeks ago....I found it to be about 11+/12-....It is a little heady lead, as you doing solid climbing, well above bolts is super soft sandstone, and gound fall for the first 4 bolts is possible. Alot of the holds were still very fragil due to lack of traffic, but near the top the route almost splits. You can go way left into super sandy easy heucos, or go right through near imposibble crimps (5.13) I did both ways neither is quite fun.

Personally this line is no where near as good as the 3 main climbs, but is a nice diversion. The climb should finish 2 bolts from the anchor. As is you need 14ish draws and 2 ropes to get down.
By Conrad ^^ Anker
Nov 22, 2010

After establishing namaste and hueco rancheros I had a well known landscape photographer come down on me like a ton of bricks. He had hiked the South Fork for decades, photographed the unique wall and was understandably worked that climbers would desecrate this temple of nature. So word sorta evolved into,"Keep it mum." Eventually the images made it into print in the climbing mags and the word was out. Still quality routes worth the side hike and perhaps the steepest sport climbs in Zion NP.

If you sit in the huecos long enough the canyon wrens will visit you.
By Joseph M.
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 12, 2011

I recently purchased 100 meters of Dynamic rope from Sterling and was wondering if anyone knew if it would be enough to lower off of these climbs. Then I could top rope and clean from the other end. Appreciate the info!
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Oct 13, 2011

I think 100m would be plenty.

As I recall, when I belayed someone on Huecos several years ago, we lowered with a single 70m. I had to climb up to the first bolt (or maybe a little past it) once the rope came tight on me (the belayer), then downclimb.
By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 19, 2011

What is the weather like for this climb in June, July, and August? How about September?
By Chad Perkins
Feb 14, 2012

The new route is called Twins Paradox, a comment on the two possible ways to finish the route. The jury is still out on which way ages you more but I found both very fun. The left branch is lower quality sandy slopers and felt like 12-. The right branch is stellar and unique for the wall as it doesn't have any jugs. It goes at 5.13a but could be harder for shorter folk.

I feel the best part of the route is the last two bolts if you take the right branch. A ground fall would be very difficult as each clipping hold for the first 4 bolts is a huge jug. I felt a minimalist approach was the best for this crag, hence the spaced out bolts that are painted black to blend in to the beautiful black streak the route climbs.

One 80m rope gets you down perfectly, just like Huecos Rancheros and is all I ever take up there as Namaste requires at least a 70m rope as well. Thanks for the feedback, enjoy!!!
By Lotapowder
May 22, 2012

Regardless of the grade, these routes are unique and awesome!! Go get on them. FYI I just did Huecos with a 90m rope and only had about 10 feet of rope left when I reached the ground. It would be a rope stretcher with a 80m rope.
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I was able to lower off of Huecos with a 70m from the Anchors. We tied a dead mans knot at the end of the rope. Belayer had to climb to third bold to lower me into the tree (15ft behind the route). He then went in direct and let the rope go through belay device and I was able to scramble down the tree. 70m rope works just gotta do a little funkyness to make it work. WORLD CLASS Routes!!!
By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Jan 3, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

12c all day long - awesome route thanks so much for putting it up and the work that went into it! What a killer climb!! Totally made my whole trip to St George.
By Raiden
From: Royal Oak, MI
Apr 22, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Similar comment to Pat Mac - a 70m will not get you to the ground without some shenanigans. My belayer had to climb to the 3rd bolt with the knot against his device and I was still ~15' in the air, however there is a nice tree to downclimb. Great route.
By Leif E
May 4, 2014

the crux on this route was for sure 12c... also there were enough quick links half way up this one that we just went in straight and pulled the rope down and ran it through one of the intermediate links.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 4, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I found this route to be somewhat out of character with the other routes- and for that reason, i'm not a huge fan. imho, the route would be better as a 38m 5.11c/d to the last hueco before the nasty hard crux that gives the climb its grade. It's just so out of character with the rest of the route, i had a hard time motivating to try and redpoint. To each their own, but I much prefer consistency in my rock climbs.
By David Adams
Jul 29, 2014

Amazing route just no other way to put it. However as of July 29 2014 the crux bolt was a 3/8 inch stud that was spinning in its hole. High enough that you would be fine if it pulled but you would go for one hell of a ride haha. Would have replaced it my self if it hadn't been the last day of climbing on our trip. But again really truly amazing line it was a privilege to be able to climb in such a beautiful place.