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Hueco Syndrome 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 976
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Aug 15, 2006
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Felicia on the first pitch
Some areas require a guide.

Description 

Two short pitches (could be combined?). the first is 5.8+ up moderate huecos. The second tackles a short corner and some face climbing.


Location 

Starts left of Uriah's Heap, a pillar of rock leaning against the buttress left of Sea of Holes.


Protection 

1st pitch: 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
2nd pitch: 5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.
A single two-rope rappel for descent, or climb a short pitch to the summit.



Photos of Hueco Syndrome Slideshow Add Photo
Russ using some hip scum on the second pitch.
Russ using some hip scum on the second pitch.
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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Aug 15, 2006

The old D. Jackson guide rates this as a 5.10-. I felt it to be much more challenging than the neighboring Sea of Holes, even with the added security of more bolts.

By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 5, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

I have climbed pitch one more than ten times. 8+ is fair for pitch one. Not strenuous but requires finding all the right moves. Crux down low. Some moves are awesome. Pitch two is 10a/b since I lead it. If it were c/d I wouldn't have lead it. Two cams supplement bolts if you want. Excellent pitch. Easier than Window Pain.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 16, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Cool moves on both pitches. The rock on the first pitch is fairly slick and the huecos aren't as good as they look from the ground. First pitch is probably 10a. Second pitch has some more cool moves getting into the dihedral and is a bit easier than the first pitch. Maybe 5.9. You can do the second pitch and continue all the way to the summit with a 70m rope, combining pitches 2 and 3. Pitch 3 has no pro, but is maybe 5.5. Supplemental pro is not needed on pitch 2 as the bolts protect it adequately.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 17, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

1st pitch is pseudo slick and a cool move or two before reaching the anchors. 2nd pitch a bit easier and just as nice. Don't skimp by just doing the first pitch.

Unless you just LOVE walking off from the summit then rap from the top of the 2nd pitch. The last bit of climbing doesn't warrant the efforts to walk off the crag.

~Susan