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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Wisdom, The 

Huck Off 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Cameron Tague, Willie Mein
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,608
Submitted By: Pinklebear on May 1, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Rob Kepley just after making the signature "huck" ...
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  • Description 

    This is a very cool sport (read: sporty) route that climbs through the sea of bulging rock right of the crux pitch of The Wisdom and left of Hands in the Clouds. The route name, a double entendre, is both a reference to the potential for big air on one of the route's cruxes and Cameron Tague's good-natured jab at the route's detractors, who griped that it was too close to The Wisdom when it was put up.

    Climb Temporary Like Achilles and aid through the roof (or try Undertaker if you feel like pulling on what's left of the holds!) to a double-bolt belay over the lip. The route goes more or less up and left from the belay, passing two bolts on the vertical plaque before tackling a crux bulging section with two more bolts. Finish straight up on the easy corner above the crux of The Wisdom to a shared double-bolt anchor. Two rappels get you back to the ground, or finish out on Psycho Slab.


    Protection 

    Some small wires and TCUs can be used to supplement the bolts.



    Photos of Huck Off Slideshow Add Photo
    Score  <br />Huck Off: 2  <br />| Rob Kepley: 0
    Score
    Huck Off: 2
    | Rob Kepley: 0
    Rob Kepley nearing the end of the run out just before the second bolt. A fall from here will put you below the roof.  The photo makes it look casual - it is not.
    Rob Kepley nearing the end of the run out just bef...
    Joe casts off on the heady start.
    Joe casts off on the heady start.
    Rob Kepley making another big move.
    Rob Kepley making another big move.
    Rob Kepley styling out the finish.
    Rob Kepley styling out the finish.
    Joe catching the jug at third clip.
    Joe catching the jug at third clip.
    Comments on Huck Off Add Comment
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    By Scott Bennett
    Jan 12, 2010
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

    One of the best sport pitches in the canyon. There might not be any moves as hard as on its neighbor, "Hands in the Clouds", but Huck is definitely more sustained and exciting.
    I won't say it's dangerous, but there's potential for some big air here. Getting the second bolt is spooky, but relatively easy and secure. After that, it's on, with big moves between good holds and little possibility to rest.
    Fantastic position, killer rock, and outrageous moves make this an Eldo must-do!
    -Scott