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Climb the chickenheads past three bolts to a ledge, then head a few feet to the right for some features and small cracks that lead you to the anchors.
Head up onto the ledge at the base of all the routes, and find a single bolt in the middle of a well-defined solid black water streak. To get down, rappel the route.
Three bolts off the start, then a handful of small aliens will get you to the top.