Howser Towers Rock Climbing
South Howser on the left, Minaret in center, and C...
The tallest of all the Bugaboo Spires the Howser Towers boast the biggest and some of the hardest climbs in the park. The east and northeast faces contain more alpine mountaineering routes than pure rock routes and see little action. The west face on the other hand challenges climbers with routes up to 3000' tall and as hard as 5.12, and or A4. These towers can be a much more serious undertaking due to their longer approach, the size of the routes, elevation, exposure and bergshrunds.
For those planning to climb a few routes on the Howsers, the East Creek Basin Bivy site is a good option. It is located just to the southwest of South Howser Tower giving close access to the South and Central Towers.
There are three different approaches to the Howser Towers depending on where your trying to get to. For the east and northeast faces approach via the Upper Vowel Glacier. To get to the west face of the North Tower take the North Shoulder Col. And for the west face of South and Central Towers use the East Creek approach.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Howser Towers
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Howser Towers:
Featured Route For Howser Towers
All Along the Watchtower 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
C2- R North America
: ... : North Howser Tower
The route is s serious undertaking and was cutting edge at the time of ist F.A. It ascends a prominent line up the left side of the west face. Start from ledges where the lower wall sticks furthest into the glacier.P1-P9 Mostly 5.9 and 5.10, following cracks and dihedrals up the lower angle portion of the wall. The second will probably have to carry the bag in this section. There are very few substantial ledges here.P10-p13 The climbing starts traversing slightly to the north and angling for th...[more] Browse More Classics in International
From: a Toyota Tacoma
Aug 10, 2015
Some friends and I installed TR anchors near the East Creek Bivy Site. After spending a week in snow (mid July!) we needed an outlet. With a 70m rope you can easily top rope about 8 pitches up to mid 5.11, including a 10- hand/fist crack that can be lead on gear off the prominent ledge. Other friends also established a few single pitch gear routes beneath the ridge on Beckey-Chouinard, facing camp. These routes share one anchor, whereas there are two anchors for the other routes adjacent to camp.