Howser Towers Rock Climbing
South Howser on the left, Minaret in center, and C...
The tallest of all the Bugaboo Spires the Howser Towers boast the biggest and some of the hardest climbs in the park. The east and northeast faces contain more alpine mountaineering routes than pure rock routes and see little action. The west face on the other hand challenges climbers with routes up to 3000' tall and as hard as 5.12, and or A4. These towers can be a much more serious undertaking due to their longer approach, the size of the routes, elevation, exposure and bergshrunds.
For those planning to climb a few routes on the Howsers, the East Creek Basin Bivy site is a good option. It is located just to the southwest of South Howser Tower giving close access to the South and Central Towers.
There are three different approaches to the Howser Towers depending on where your trying to get to. For the east and northeast faces approach via the Upper Vowel Glacier. To get to the west face of the North Tower take the North Shoulder Col. And for the west face of South and Central Towers use the East Creek approach.
Climbing Season For the Columbia Mountains area.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Howser Towers
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Howser Towers:
Featured Route For Howser Towers
The Big Hose, South Howser Tower
WI4- North America
: ... : South Howser Tower
HISTORYJon Krakauer soloed this super-direct ice gully on his way up to do the first solo ascent of the Devils Thumb in Alaska. First done in May, but I've heard reports of later ascents.APPROACHHike in via Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and the Vowell Neve. Use the map in the photos section below to help with planning. ROUTE DESCRIPTIONThe first pitch crosses the 'schrund. About five more to the summit. A couple of eighty-degree bulges on the lower pitches lead to a chockstone/ver...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: Longmont, CO.
Aug 10, 2015
Some friends and I installed TR anchors near the East Creek Bivy Site. After spending a week in snow (mid July!) we needed an outlet. With a 70m rope you can easily top rope about 8 pitches up to mid 5.11, including a 10- hand/fist crack that can be lead on gear off the prominent ledge. Other friends also established a few single pitch gear routes beneath the ridge on Beckey-Chouinard, facing camp. These routes share one anchor, whereas there are two anchors for the other routes adjacent to camp.