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Chimney Rock - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ballet T 
Break Dancing T 
Damper T 
Dirty Dancing T 
Dyno in the Dark T 
Howard's Horror, Direct T 
Pinched Rib T 
West Face Overhang T 

Howard's Horror, Direct 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 631
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 8, 2006

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Jason Partin on the crux of Howard's Horror Direct


A fun thin crack/mantle problem. The original 5.7 line started well to the left, and then traversed right to the upper part of the route. The direct start is a better way to do the climb - the protection is very good for the hard moves.


middle of the southwest face of Chimney Rock, to the left of Damper


mainly small gear

Photos of Howard's Horror, Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rope Drag anyone?  Obviously not the Direct versio...
Rope Drag anyone? Obviously not the Direct versio...

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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 30, 2007

Above the crux, Howard's Horror follows the crack that separates the taller face on the left from the lower section on the right. Follow through several short offwidths and rounded ledges. For descent, we chose to 4th class to the top of the northwest gully and rappel from the chains atop the east face.
By Johnny Ice
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 30, 2011

Not worth doing. Howard's horror became my own as I realized how much time I wasted on it. But that's just me. In all honesty, I might feel different if I would've lead it because my partner took way way way too long finding the route. And the decent through the chimney was ridiculous. I used my cordelette looped around a rock to prevent me from killing myself. It is safe enough but its my first experience with that kind of decent. I'd rather rap off the east face anchors at the top of the chimney. It would save time.

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