how to get into aid?
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so ive been free climbing for a few years and recently decided i wanted to dabble in some aid climbing to possibly link routes or whatever needed for i just want the skill. Ive read alot about it and think i would have my sequence down but i wanted to get a second look from you guys. What kindof route should i look for to start off on. and any other tips? especially the DO NOT's haha |
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More specific questions will get you better and more accurate information. |
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Aid "climbing" is dead, may I suggest rock climbing instead? |
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1. Borrow some aiders and daisies. |
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just try things that are too hard for you to free climb. |
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What's with all the hating on aid? |
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Aid climbing sucks. |
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Ok. Free climbers hate Aid climbers and Trad climbers hate boulderers. What else we got? |
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Two tips that are not already mentioined:
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JJNS wrote:Ok. Free climbers hate Aid climbers and Trad climbers hate boulderers. What else we got? Lets give this kid some credit. How many 16yr olds do you know that are interested in learning Aid? Most kids are only psyched on crushing plastic. I think Aid climbing is an essential skill when it comes to big walling. You go up there with the intentions of climbing free but it can't hurt to have a few tricks up your sleeve. A lot of desert towers require a pitch or two of Aid. Amazing routes that would be 5.13+ if they were done free. Should we not even attempt them because we can't free climb at that level?Well, I guess I am 17 now, but I am interested in aid as well. End goal is to start hitting up walls. |
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Being young is awesome. My first wall was The Hallucinogen Wall (Luckly I didnt have to lead the hooking pitch though!)in the Black when I was 16, followed by Lurking Fear that summer. |
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Once you start down this road, it is a hard one to reverse! You will soon learn to despise free climbing, and will shudder at the thought of 5.9. You will develop a nasty habit of drinking warm Olde English 800s and King Cobras. You will become far more familiar with your partner's bowel movements than you ever hoped for. You will own 15 or more beaks, because soloing Sunkist seems like it would be a fun vacation. You will eat more Dennison's Chili than you could imagine. |
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Moof wrote: Before you know it the commercial gear will look lame, necessitating ordering of custom machined parts, a bar tacker, and an industrial sewing machine so you can "do it right".Moof I really got a good laugh out of your post. I just purchased a sewing machine because hand sewing my own gear slings and adjustable daisies was a pain in the ass. Portaledge is next on the project list. I try to stay away from the chili because my partners really don't like it when I live off chili for 3 days. A cold can of glop is the best thing in the world sometimes. And since nobody has mentioned it yet...stay away from The Black Art of Piton Craft and keep it clean until you know what your doing. Pounding iron has a place but you can really screw up the rock if you don't know what your doing (like me) Anything that "requires" pins at this point is going to make you soil yourself anyway or many times it's been retrobolted or it's got other fixed gear on it. |
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+1 on what Moof and Evan said!!! ←-----Listen up! |
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Check out the Gunks Online Aid Climbing Guide for a list of potential routes. |
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Chuck Manburger wrote:+1 on what Moof and Evan said!!! ©-----Listen up! +2 on the amount of cash you needc Add: ---Be prepared to work Hard! Once you think you got that conceptc..accept the fact that it is going to be 5X harder. Once it is ALL dialedc. the comfort and speed will come. --- Read some stuff in books and on all the forums. Lots of smart, intelligent, creative and supportive aid-climbers out there, with lots of good info (PTPP, Chris Mac, and TONS OF OTHERS like Moof and Evan for example). I have found that some, if not all of us, are weirdc.or eccentriccor drinkersc.or whatever. Common thread I found is everyone is out for fun! So have a blast! Lots of ways to enjoy climbing! Also a friendly and gentle reminderc..Youfre GUNNA DIE! Peace!Chuck Manburger=Locker? |
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Hank Caylor wrote: Chuck Manburger=Locker?With a name like Manburger, I would say you are correct, sir. |
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Evan Horvath aka Evan1984 wrote:2. Instead of setting up a toprope, setup a fixed single line, clip in with a grigri, and self-belay (with backup knocks every 10 feet). You'll lose friends really fast if you make them belay while learning aid.This! I spent two hours with an ATC belaying a buddy on a 5.9 hand crack as he sorted through gear and worked on high-stepping. We haven't climbed since then. Aid looks rad. I'd love to get into it, but too many free climbing projects around here to really start into another sport. Someday I'll get over myself and start learning the skills. |
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Hank Caylor wrote: Chuck Manburger=Locker? Locker from ST and Here??? Ummm....no....Sorry Hank! |
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Ryan Huetter wrote:But regardless of what aid-haters have to say, it is the most badass way to visit some pretty cool locations.Oh, the wild places you can go... |