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how to deal with a flapper?
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By Jaysen Henderson
From White Plains, New York
Apr 4, 2011
on p13 or so of zodiac
yesterday i was training inside at a new gym and for some reason i think it might have had to do with the quality of the holds (more gritty)i got a huge flapper on my left ring finger. i removed the loose skin and let it heal overnight trying not to bend it and now im wondering if there's anything i could do to make it heal faster? can i tape it and climb with it ?

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By Jon Griffin
From Boulder, Co
Apr 4, 2011
Me
shoulda left the skin, covered it with flappy skin, antibiotic ointment like crazy, bandage

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By Jasmine Kall
Apr 4, 2011
Getting ready to climb!
Super glue....

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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 4, 2011
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.
Super glue can work great if you glue it back before the flapper starts to dry out. But once your precious bodily fluids no longer keep it moist, it will dry and shrivel to a contorted shape that no longer spans the raw flesh. At that point cut it off with scissors or a pair of fingernail clippers. Clean the wound with soap and water and let air dry. Don't apply a band aid, as this inhibits drying and scab formation.

Later you can paint coats of Nuskin over it if you want to try climbing on it, or just tape over it to protect it.

I got a few on my thumb at Shelf on Saturday and they are nicely dried out now and even have some fingerprints starting to reappear.

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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Apr 4, 2011
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
If I want to keep climbing the same day: use climbing tape to cover it over...if bleeding, clean it out and fill with some type of ointment (I use beeswax, olive oil, and vitamin E. VitE helps with healing of skin).

What you do also depends on size. Most smaller "holes" I just tape over and let them heal, apply ointment at night and leave in open air. Tape loosely during the day to prevent interference from daily things. I tend to just trim the dead/dying skin and tape over it regardless. Nail clippers work quite well.


Trimmed flapper from Metolius Heuco roof jug.
Trimmed flapper from Metolius Heuco roof jug.



This one didn't actually bleed if I remember correctly. It took tape and a couple days of taking it easy. It stung if I climbed on it, but nothing too bad.

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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Apr 4, 2011
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan
rub some dirt in it.

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By Chris90
From Unity, Maine
Apr 4, 2011
You are all WRONG! Gotta be LNT and eat it! Good snack, high in protein

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By rob bauer
From Golden, CO
Apr 4, 2011
Brendan, good picture. Jaysen: Good advice on glue, and if your's is in a good spot, at this point, assuming the flapper may have dried to much to work well, your only option may be to clip it off, tape it and go. Some Tincture of Benzoine CAREFULLY applied around the area will keep adjacent skin from breaking down under the tape and keep it on better. (If you get the tincture in the wound, WOW, will you remember that!)

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By AWinters
Administrator
From the Shire
Apr 4, 2011
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks
double flap <br /> <br />
double flap



Keep the flap if it's deep! it does no harm, and it may help keep it clean. Add neosporin and tape, remove tape during sleep (let breathe). Repeat as needed.

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By RockinOut
From NY, NY
Apr 4, 2011
Gear
Cut the flap, clean it out, and smother in Climb On cream and bandage it..3 days you`ll be back 100%. Dont let it dry out. Use a nail clipper or small scissors to cut any loose hanging skin to prevent further tearing. google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&oe=...




Video isnt me...but my buddy

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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Apr 4, 2011
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
As for applying other things, I usually pour hydrogen peroxide on when I get home to clean out dirt and grime left after climbing. I've poured it in large wounds and had little to no pain, and I've poured it into tiny punctures and been jumping up and down fighting back expletives so I'd say its a necessary evil to keep it clean and uninfected.

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By AlCapone
From Chicago, IL
Apr 4, 2011
Me
Personally, I go down to the speakeasy, get me some gigglewater, then i light my cigy and then ask that hotsy-totsy flapper with the gams if she's got a daddy. If so, I tell that ragamuffin to cram. Then we pet. Afterwards I tell her to pipe down and get me another hair of the dog. Horsefeathers!

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By JoeP
From Littleton, CO
Apr 4, 2011
Soak it in salt water for 5-10 mins. Repeat a few times a day.

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By Walt Barker
From Reno NV
Apr 4, 2011
Self portrait on the summit of Gray's Peak, CO
Don't let it dry out. I used to be of the "let it dry out" school, but but found a way that allows it to heal faster.

If the flap is gone,

1. Clean the wound
2. Apply a piece of Second Skin (the sterile variety)
3. Keep the second skin in place with tape

This keeps the wound sterile. I've had some big flaps heal-up really fast, like 3 days, with this method.

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By NOFF
From Big South Fork, TN
Apr 4, 2011
If your at the cliff, leave the flap, pack it with chalk, then tape. Once your at home, sanitize, neosporin, and let air. Back at the cliff, pack with chalk, tape.

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By Jean Scott
Apr 6, 2011
Clear Creek Canyon
Tea Tree Oil.

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By Brian Abram
From Columbia, SC
Apr 6, 2011
Brian Abram, leading pitch 2 of Dinkus Dog on the South Side of Looking Glass.  Kyle Sox is belaying.
Flappers

A stern warning from a strong willed man should put her in order.

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