|Penitente - Inner Canyon
Follow the main drainage that enters the canyon from the right at Captain America. As the drainage narrows down, head for the huecoed wall at the end - this may entail scrambling around the streamlet that can run a bit of water in the spring. Excellent hueco climbing to a thin slab await. This line comes well recommended as a rationally bolted moderate on solid rock that provides a good a good introduction to pocket climbing.
A handful of draws and a rope.
Brice W. cruising How the West Was Won.
BETA PHOTO: How The West Was Won 5/21/2005.
BETA PHOTO: You can see the first bolt here. The start is sti...
Adam checks out the huecos.
Jonny about to rap.
Adam back to crimping just below the anchor.
The main arete.
G. Milbourne topping out.
Climber on How The West Was Won as viewed from the...
Tristan Hechtel flashes How the West Was Won. Phot...
How the West Was Won.
At the start.
April belaying Ty on How the West Was Won.
|By Larry Earley|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 3, 2003
Nice climb but short. One of the few easier climbs at Penitente. Start is crux. Good warmup climb.
|By Ryan Olson|
Nov 20, 2003
I thought this was a great route and it was my first lead out side. The big incut huecos make it a great beginner climb.
|By tim naylor|
Mar 22, 2004
A bit sporty at the start without a stick clip.
|By tim naylor|
Mar 25, 2004
Does anyone know route name & grade of route 10' to the south. .11a?ish.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 25, 2004
Funny coincidence, I was just there this past weekend and we noticed an excellent bolted line on a cliff just behind the belay stance for HTWWW. It felt 11a-ish to me as well, with some nice powerful (relatively for penitente, at least) moves up two short steep faces, and a thin-feet diagonal rightward traverse connecting them. Recommended, but perhaps do two warmup laps on HTWWW before bearing down on this one's crimpers. Oh, and by the way, I thought HTWWW was an excellent warmup or easy-moderate lead (with stick clip for beginning leaders). Beautiful location, too, in a little winding side canyon with a porthole arch in the cliff above.
From: Denver, Colorado
Sep 18, 2006
"Heads up" - I thought the first bolt was WAY up there. Still, a fun climb all the way up.
|By Mike Anderson|
From: Dayton, OH
Oct 26, 2006
Some pencil-dik stole one of the chains off this route. If you find this person, be sure to slash his tires for me!
|By Chris Wenker|
From: Santa Fe
May 18, 2008
I got a good black Powercam placement in a left-hand hueco from an easy low stance. That should CYA to nearly the first bolt. (but Camalots are too wide for those pockets).
|By Jesse Morehouse|
May 25, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One of the better 5.9 climbs in the canyon that, like most of them, was not bolted for a 5.9 leader. I guess it is incentive to step up to higher grades because 5.12 climbers on 5.12 climbs are apparently at greater risk than 5.9 climbers on 5.9 routes!
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2009
Maybe a little soft for 5.9 (actually rated 5.8+ in the Colorado guidebook). But that first bolt is a very long ways up there and it is not a gimmee to get there. Very fun climb.
|By Ben Cassedy|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Super fun route, each hold better than the last. I didn't find the upper slab 'thin' either - positive holds up there, too.
I followed the guidebook's suggestion of belaying from up top. The anchors are plenty beefy - it was just a fun walkoff in a cool setting.
|By Mike Smyth|
From: Spartanburg, SC
May 29, 2012
That first bolt is still a ways up. I showed it some stick clip love. I would guess it's about 15-17' up to the first. It's doable on the lead, but stick clipping that first one sure does make you feel better about it.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2012
Fun climb, surprisingly pumpy, although you have plenty of places to rest. I agree, what's up with the super high first bolt? The holds are decent for the start, except deciding which to use, climb purposefully until you get that bolt!
May 26, 2014
The mussy hooks at the anchor were missing their gates (open hooks) and were replaced with rap rings (part of the 2014 re-bolting project weekend).