How The West Was Won 

Nice climb but short. One of the few easier climbs at Penitente. Start is crux. Good warmup climb.

I thought this was a great route and it was my first lead out side. The big incut huecos make it a great beginner climb.

A bit sporty at the start without a stick clip.

Does anyone know route name & grade of route 10' to the south. .11a?ish.

Funny coincidence, I was just there this past weekend and we noticed an excellent bolted line on a cliff just behind the belay stance for HTWWW. It felt 11a-ish to me as well, with some nice powerful (relatively for penitente, at least) moves up two short steep faces, and a thin-feet diagonal rightward traverse connecting them. Recommended, but perhaps do two warmup laps on HTWWW before bearing down on this one's crimpers. Oh, and by the way, I thought HTWWW was an excellent warmup or easy-moderate lead (with stick clip for beginning leaders). Beautiful location, too, in a little winding side canyon with a porthole arch in the cliff above.

"Heads up" - I thought the first bolt was WAY up there. Still, a fun climb all the way up.

Some pencil-dik stole one of the chains off this route. If you find this person, be sure to slash his tires for me!

I got a good black Powercam placement in a left-hand hueco from an easy low stance. That should CYA to nearly the first bolt. (but Camalots are too wide for those pockets).

One of the better 5.9 climbs in the canyon that, like most of them, was not bolted for a 5.9 leader. I guess it is incentive to step up to higher grades because 5.12 climbers on 5.12 climbs are apparently at greater risk than 5.9 climbers on 5.9 routes!

Maybe a little soft for 5.9 (actually rated 5.8+ in the Colorado guidebook). But that first bolt is a very long ways up there and it is not a gimmee to get there. Very fun climb.

Super fun route, each hold better than the last. I didn't find the upper slab 'thin' either - positive holds up there, too.

I followed the guidebook's suggestion of belaying from up top. The anchors are plenty beefy - it was just a fun walkoff in a cool setting.

That first bolt is still a ways up. I showed it some stick clip love. I would guess it's about 15-17' up to the first. It's doable on the lead, but stick clipping that first one sure does make you feel better about it.

Fun climb, surprisingly pumpy, although you have plenty of places to rest. I agree, what's up with the super high first bolt? The holds are decent for the start, except deciding which to use, climb purposefully until you get that bolt!