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How much rope fray do you tolerate? (pics)
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By JeremyB
Mar 7, 2013
Me warming up at LRC.

Hi, everyone. What amount of rope fray do you tolerate? Do you have photos to show what is too much and/or acceptable?

I have a new Petzl Xion 10.1 rope that I've used to lead climb in the gym for two months. I also just took it outside for some light sport climbing last weekend. I've noticed some fraying near the ends, which is a common place for fray to happen. However, since this is my first rope, I'm unsure what to make of this amount of fray. Is this normal, or should I be concerned? I'm going to climb Red Rocks in two months and am wondering if I should chop off the ends or just buy a new (non Petzl) rope before then.

Petzl Rope Fray
Petzl Rope Fray



Petzl Rope Fray Closeup
Petzl Rope Fray Closeup


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By bearbreeder
Mar 7, 2013

youll be fine ... happens to all ropes

eventually sooner or later the rope will die

ropes are expendables ... the more you climb the faster you go through ropes

which is why i use cheap ropes for cragging ...


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 7, 2013
OTL

Don't fear the fuzz.


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By JeremyB
Mar 7, 2013
Me warming up at LRC.

bearbreeder wrote:
i use cheap ropes for cragging ...


Which brands?


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By Crossing
From Breinigsville, PA
Mar 7, 2013
old rag summit

I have a Petzl Zephyr and there are a few sections on it that look just as bad or worse than your pictures. My experience was that the fuzz started then slowly got worse, I've been using my rope for about 3 years with moderate use and still haven't chopped it yet. But yours still looks fine, just make sure to inspect it periodically and you will know when its time to chop.


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By Tombo
From Boulder
Mar 7, 2013
1/3 of the way up Spire, just above where my piece blew.

When my partners start complaining about my ratty rope I change it. It's not the outside you have to worry about it's the inner core. Feel for flat or mushy spots where you think it's damaged. If you roll it in a tight pig tail along it's length it should maintain a round shape, if it flattens out or kinks you may have damage there.


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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Mar 7, 2013

I haven't been impressed with Petzl.

Common practice is to pinch the rope in the frayed bit. If the core is good, you won't be able to get the rope to touch itself without a gap. If it is bad, or you are worried about the amount of fraying, cut the ends and know how much rope you have left.


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By bearbreeder
Mar 7, 2013

JeremyB wrote:
Which brands?


tendon right now ... i buy the 10mm for 100$ or less


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By JCM
From Henderson, NV
Mar 7, 2013

David Sahalie wrote:
I haven't been impressed with Petzl.


It is strange; everything else they make is fantastic, but their ropes are notorious of rbeing inconsistent in their durability.


David Sahalie wrote:
If it is bad, or you are worried about the amount of fraying, cut the ends and know how much rope you have left.


And keep a knot in the end of that trimmed rope, esepecially when cragging with lower-offs. Really, just keep the knot there; there isn't any reason not to. Although you know that the rope is short,there will come a day that you forget to tell your partner this, and keeping that knot sitting in the end at the bottom of the rope bag could save you from major injury.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Mar 7, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Yeah Petzl ropes seem to get wicked fuzzy pretty fast...especially a pain for wet ice climbing. Like climbing on a frozen water-hose!


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 7, 2013

Thats a pretty bad case of fuzz for a rope thats barely been used. That said, i wouldnt worry overmuch about it- the rope looks fine at the moment. Do keep an eye on it, though.

The Petzl Xion is the Zephyrs replacement. When the Xion came out it was touted as being more durable thanks to a looser weave (which is why it feels so nice when you first handle it). I had this rope for a month before I shredded it so badly, Petzl asked for it back for testing (it was a review rope donated by Petzl). I think I put 10 days on it and it became basically unusable. (For the record, I was using it for bolt replacement- jugging, rock dust, and other general abuse were greatly higher than a normal user would expect).

IMHO, a looser weave is going to result in a significantly less durable rope. I have no idea if Petzl asked their rope manufacturer to adjust the weave for the production run of the rope. Just looking at the pictures of your rope, my guess is no.


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By Crossing
From Breinigsville, PA
Mar 7, 2013
old rag summit

Some good info from Petzl here: www.petzl.com/EPI/v2/epi-en/Cor/CorGB.htm


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 7, 2013
OTL

Get this guy www.mountainproject.com/v/safely-self-belay-during-speed-aus>>> to use your rope - a nice hot glazing will shrink/melt down any excess fuzz.


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By wivanoff
Mar 7, 2013
High Exposure

Larry Penberthy (MSR) claimed that ropes got fuzzy quickly at first and then the "fur" somewhat protected the other fibers from further damage.

That seems to be my (non-scientific) experience also. Your rope doesn't look so bad to me. I've led on way fuzzier ropes than that.


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By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
Mar 7, 2013
RJN

No yer gonna die?

I gotcha-

YER GONNA DIE!


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By T.J. Esposito
From San Diego, CA
Mar 7, 2013
Espresso @ New Jack City

I've got a Petzl Nomad (9.8) that I started on outdoors and now use as my gym rope, it's gotten overly soft and super puffy at the ends and I've had to chop the ends a few times when I could start to see core through the weave.

On the other hand, I have a Petzl Fuse (9.4) that I use on pretty much every multipitch (most of my climbing; for over a year now) and it's stood up to being dragged through dirt, rock abrasion, loads of falls and raps and I've yet to chop an end or even get puffiness. Most of the rope is as tight as the day I got it, aside from maybe 3 feet on one end.


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